Tom Aikens's Tom's Kitchen in Somerset House, London, receives a slating from the London Evening Standard‘s Andrew Neather, who questions whether the unexciting food is worth the eye-watering price tag.
Neather also has a pop at the "slightly mass-produced feel" of the dishes he was presented with, which he puts down to Aikens's joint venture with Compass Group.
"Why come here? The food is ordinary, the place neither beautiful nor comfortable, and you can eat better for far less," he asks, before slapping the restaurant with a lowly two stars out of five.
The Guardian‘s new reviwer, John Lanchester, is far kinder to Alexis Gauthier's Gauthier Soho, despite some slightly hovery service. "If it were my restaurant, I'd serve the cooking with fewer poncey trappings. But Gauthier can really, really cook," he says.
Writing in the Observer, Jay Rayner also has a pleasant experience at Digby Chick in Stornoway, despite a rather overwritten menu.
And the Daily Telegraph‘s Mick Brown samples the ultra-local seafood on offer at Webbe's Rock-a-Nore in Hastings, East Sussex.
By Neil Gerrard
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