Quality hits The Mark
MARK'S Restaurant in The Mark, one of New York's elegant upper East Side hotels, has, for the last few years, pursued an exemplary pricing policy at lunch time. This year a three-course menu costs $19.94. According to management, it probably will not rise more than one cent next year.
The menu offered a choice at each course. Oysters or grilled shrimp with a tagliatelle of fennel for starters, while the main courses were tile fish or red snapper: lightly cooked fillets in both cases; one with a succotash of pulses, one with a julienne of leeks and carrots in a light broth.
Fresh fruit brochette in a white peach broth, and a filo bundle of dried fruit, cranberries, nuts, cherries, blueberries and apricots all in a passion fruit syrup, were the two puddings.
For the equivalent of £13.75 it was very good and, given the ingredients, not too expensive to produce. Exotic fish sells well as fewer people cook it at home, and it is perceived as healthy. Pulses, root vegetables and parsley are also inexpensive.
Apart from this menu, chef Erik Maillard changes the à la carte dinner every month. With food and beverage manager, Jean-Luc Deguines, he puts together vintners dinners, such as the one detailed below. In addition, a traditional lunch-time menu is served, the highlight of which for me is the lobster and avocado club sandwich and the Caesar salad, made with prosciutto and sun-dried tomatoes, served as an appetiser or a main course.
At Madison and 63rd, the Post House shares premises with The Lowell. Part of The New York Restaurant Group, it opened about 15 years ago. A haven from the New York health police, it was packed with smokers and drinkers, the latter doing justice to a comprehensive, well planned wine list.
We could choose from the day's special, which on this occasion was a Japanese-style Fisherman's Platter for $27, or from the daily menu, listed below.
The Post House is famous for its prime ribs and lobster, and that is what we chose, with the best-ever crab cakes and Pine Island oysters for starters. Lobster was listed at $16.50 per lb. I asked for one about 11/4-11/2lb, but was told: "We never serve anything less than three."
A glass of Jordan Chardonnay was fine with the starters, and the 1989 Jordan Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon was wonderful with the main course, even the lobster, but really needed another five years in bottle.o
