To be honest, we’re not 100% sure this strictly qualifies as a true martini. Or to be honest what even makes a martini in the first place. The ever-reliable Savoy Cocktail Book features four different recipes, all of which are basically just gin and vermouth in varying proportions. The more modern and no-less excellent Meehan’s Bartender Manual says that for most of its history ‘martini’ referred more to the style of glass than the booze in it.
Whatever the origins of the cocktail, this is a delicious take that is no less lethal than its more traditional cousins. It is perhaps wetter (more vermouth) and dirtier (more brine) than purists might allow, but we urge you to give it a try before passing judgement.
We’ve also taken inspiration from the ‘Italian’ nature of the Giardiniera and opted for an Italian-style vermouth here. But this is almost purely an affectation. We think it adds a pleasant herbal note, but feel free to use any vermouth you want here. Similarly, we’ve made this with vodka because we think its neutral flavour allows the other elements to shine, but if you simply must have a gin martini, knock yourself out.
Makes enough for four martinis
Mix the pickle brine and vermouth in a small jug/pitcher and chill in the fridge.
At the same time, put the vodka in the freezer, along with the martini glasses and cocktail shaker.
Leave everything to get properly frosty – at least a couple of hours – then assemble your ingredients and equipment at your bar station.
Half-fill a cocktail shaker with ice, then top with half the brine/vermouth mixture and half the vodka. Stir for a good minute until everything is extremely cold and well mixed. Alternatively, put the lid on the cocktail shaker and give it the bartender’s treatment – however, this will make purists wince and your cocktails will go slightly cloudy.
Using a strainer, pour the ice-cold cocktail into two of the frozen martini glasses. Press one of the pickled celery around the rim of the glasses and serve with an olive dropped in or added to a toothpick with a small piece of lemon peel, if liked. Repeat the process with the rest of the ingredients to make two more martinis.
Wash all the vegetables thoroughly and drain. Cut the fennel, carrot, celery and green peppers into bite-sized pieces. Break the cauliflower florets into similar sized pieces. Add all the prepared vegetables to a large bowl with the olives, garlic and green chillies.
Add the salt and toss to make sure all of the vegetables are well coated and a brine is beginning to form. Cover the bowl with a clean dish towel and leave the vegetables in their brine for four hours.
After four hours, tip the vegetables into a large colander in the sink and rinse. Allow them to drain briefly before returning them to the bowl. Add the bay leaves, coriander seeds, black peppercorns, mustard seeds, celery seeds and the Italian herb mix and toss so all the vegetables are coated and the spices are well distributed.
Mix the white wine vinegar with 500ml water in a separate bowl or jug and stir to combine. Pack the vegetable mix into a large sterilised jar and carefully pour the brine over the contents. Ensure the pickles are submerged with a fermentation weight, seal and place in the fridge.
Tickle Your Pickle with Shedletsky’s by James Cooper & Natalie Preston, published by Ryland Peters & Small (£16.99)
Photography by Mowie Kay © Ryland Peters & Small