Espumante: serious quality at sensible prices

Portuguese still wines are well-established on restaurant wine lists, but sparkling wine has often flown under the radar. Now Portuguese sparkling wine is gaining recognition on the world stage, does the category have a place on restaurant and event lists?

Espumante is Portugal’s term for sparkling wine and it is made through a secondary fermentation, either in bottle (the traditional method) or in tank. As sparkling wines rely on naturally high acidity, they are typically produced in Portugal’s cooler regions.

A good example of the tank method can be found in the Douro Valley, where Dalva produces both a Brut and a Rosé Espumante made exclusively from indigenous grape varieties, led by Viosinho alongside Malvasia Fina, Gouveio, Rabigato and Códega. The wines are designed to be fresh, aromatic and easy to drink. I was impressed that quality remains a priority: the grapes are hand-harvested, cold-settled and fermented at 16°C, a process that preserves aroma, freshness and vibrancy.

I was also amazed by how widely the traditional method is used in Portuguese sparkling wine, where time on the lees builds texture, depth and complexity, making Espumante well-suited to gastronomy.

I was introduced to Francisco Antunes, winemaker at Aliança, a historic house founded in 1927 in Bairrada, where he produces around one million bottles of traditionally made sparkling wine each year. His focus is on Baga, the region’s most important red grape, which brings freshness, structure and ageing potential. He also uses Chardonnay and Pinot Noir to add aroma and finesse.

Three key wines are the Aliança Baga Bairrada Reserva Brut Nature 2021, a Blanc de Noirs made exclusively from Baga; the fruit-driven Baga Rosé Brut 2022; and the Aliança Grande Reserva Brut Nature 2019, blended with Chardonnay and aged for 47 months sur lies, adding complexity and food-pairing potential.

When asked about the international growth of Portuguese sparkling wine, Francisco highlighted Portugal’s geography, particularly the cooler central and northern regions, where Atlantic influence and good diurnal temperature ranges preserve acidity and freshness. He also stressed the importance of indigenous varieties, such as Arinto, Bical and Baga, alongside the category’s strong quality-to-price ratio.

So why list Portuguese sparkling wine? Firstly, there’s a wide range of styles, with Brut and Rosé made using both traditional and tank methods, plus the added depth of long lees ageing, making them ideal as an apéritif or with food. Secondly, the use of indigenous grape varieties from lesser-known regions offers something new for guests to discover and talk about.

Finally, as Francisco highlighted, these Espumante deliver serious quality at sensible price points. Portuguese sparkling wine is quietly becoming a category worth considering, so try talking to your supplier about what could work on your list.

Martin Dibben is a partner at Premier Crew and a trustee of the Drinks Trust

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