Book review: Fast Feasts by John Gregory-Smith

Quick, easy recipes with a middle Eastern twist, from Fast Feasts by John Gregory-Smith

Before the pandemic, John Gregory-Smith spent much of his time travelling across the Middle East and North Africa, immersing himself in the vibrant cuisines that span the regions, taking inspiration for his cookery books and newspaper columns. But when flights were grounded during lockdown, the chef and writer turned to social media to engage with fellow foodies, quickly amassing millions of views across Instagram and TikTok for his charismatic and energetic videos of simple dishes with a Middle Eastern twist.

Having previously written six cookbooks – including the likes of Saffron in the Souks, Orange Blossom and Honey and Turkish Delights, exploring Lebanese, Moroccan and Turkish food respectively – Fast Feasts takes a more rudimentary approach to the cuisine and is a perfect introduction to chefs with little experience about food from this region and are unsure how to incorporate trending ingredients such as dukkah, Baharat and rosewater. It combines a number of Middle Eastern techniques, but those wishing for more detail on the varied cuisines should return to Gregory-Smith’s earlier volumes.

A glance at the contents suggests this book is aimed at the home cook, with chapters broken down into everyday easy, easy entertaining, comfort food, low and slow, working from home lunches and desserts. But from a recipe for Tepsi – Turkish meat loaf – and mirza-ghasemi – Persian baked eggs – to must-have Middle Eastern dips, such as Turkish cacik, smoked aubergine moutabal and muhammara, the social media sensation has plenty of ideas to spice up a bland lunch menu or even to add a bit of excitement for staff meals.

Furthermore, Gregory-Smith’s recipes for chocolate and tahini rocky road, sticky honey peaches and his lighter version of a Persian love cake, made from almonds, semolina, cardamom and rosewater, would sit happily on any summer menu, be that lunch, dinner or even a casual evening cooking for friends on that rare day off in the sunshine.

Fast Feasts by John Gregory-Smith Welbeck, £20