Bone marrow isn’t traditionally served on its own in Palestinian cuisine. However, many of our recipes – from mansaf to makloubeh to roasted lamb – involve cooking the meat with the bone. As a child, my grandmother used to always give me the bone marrow when cooking some of these dishes. In Arabic we call it mokh, which means "brain."
As child I assumed it was called that because it was good for the brain. But I loved the texture and appreciated how, depending on the way the meat was cooked, the texture of the bone marrow would be different. Much later in life, while in France, I started enjoying roasted beef bones with bone marrow, and I realised that I had been initiated into the secret of bone marrow very young. Here is a very simple roasted bone marrow recipe with a Palestinian twist.
Serves 6
- 1.3kg beef marrow bones, cut lengthwise
- 30g fresh zaatar leaves
- 15g flat-leaf parsley leaves
- 1tsp coarse sea salt
- 1tsp cracked black pepper
- 1/2tsp ground sumac
- 1/4tsp coriander seeds
- 1tsp fresh lemon juice
- 1 garlic clove, crushed
- Ka’ek al-quds (see below) or toasted pita bread
Preheat the oven to 220°C.
Place the bones marrow-side up on a baking sheet and roast for about 20 minutes, until the bone marrow starts bubbling.
Meanwhile, reserve a few leaves of zaatar and parsley for a garnish. In a mixing bowl, combine the rest of the zaatar and parsley with the salt, pepper, sumac, coriander seeds, lemon juice and garlic. Whisk vigorously to combine.
When the bones are ready, drizzle the fragrant herb mix on the tops and on the sides and serve with the bread on the side.
Ka’ek al-quds
Serves 4
This sesame seed-coated bread is baked fresh in wood-fired ovens in bakeries across Palestine every morning, then transported on small wooden carts across the streets. Vendors call out "ka’ek, kalek" with a musical variety of intonations.
An ideal sandwich bread, ka’ek tastes best with oven-baked eggs and a pinch of extra-salty zaatar. It is also delicious with falafel, labaneh (strained and seasoned yogurt), Nabulsi cheese or anything else that crosses your mind or inspires your palate.
- 400g all-purpose flour, plus more for the work surface
- 60g powdered whole milk
- 1tsp salt
- 1tbs baking soda
- 1tsp instant yeast
- 1tbs extra-virgin alive oil, plus more for shaping
- 120ml warm water
- 3tbs water
- 1 egg white
- 40g toasted sesame seeds
To make the ka’eks, in a large bowl, whisk together the flour, powdered milk, salt, baking soda, and yeast. Make a well in the middle and add the olive oil and the warm water. Mix well by hand until you have a homogenous dough. Transfer the dough to a floured work surface and knead the dough for 10 minutes. Cover with a cloth and leave in a warm place for one hour.
Flour the work surface, place the dough on the surface, and cut into four pieces.
Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. With oiled hands, working with one piece of dough at a time, form the dough into a ring. Slowly stretch it into an oblong shape. Place the ka’ek on the prepared baking sheet and repeat with the remaining pieces of dough. Cover the ka’eks with a cloth and leave to rise for 15 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 200°C.
Whisk two tablespoons of the water and egg white together and brush over the tops of the dough. Mix the sesame seeds with the remaining one tablespoon water, and sprinkle evenly onto the ka’ek.
Bake for 25 minutes, or until the breads are golden. You may have to rotate the baking sheet to get an even colour.
Taken from Bethlehem by Fadi Kattan (Hardie Grant, £28). Read the review of the book here
Photography: Ashley Lima