Book review: Mildreds Easy Vegan

This plant-based pioneer celebrates the release of its third cookbook, Easy Vegan, at the same time it announced the launch of two new sites in 2024

Thirty-five years ago, veganism was deemed a fringe culinary movement, associated with animal rights activists and hippies. So, when Mildreds opened its first restaurant in 1988 in the heart of London’s Soho, few would have thought that, 35 years later, it would become something of a mecca for a whole spectrum of foodies, from plant-based devotees to curious carnivores alike. It is therefore fitting that this plant-based pioneer celebrates the release of its third cookbook, Easy Vegan, at the same time it announced the launch of two new sites in 2024 to add to its five established outlets.

The book is co-written by Mildreds’ food and creative director Sarah Wasserman and senior food development chef Alessandra Malacarne, and draws on almost four decades’ worth of creativity and experience. The collection of 115 gloriously colourful and fun recipes are packed into 10 chapters, covering light bites, sharing platters, brunches and drinks (which include some brilliant alcohol-free options).

Flavours from around the world spill from the pages – a traditional British crowd-pleaser of sausage and mustard mash sits a few pages before Vietnamese street-food classic five-spice tofu bánh mì, while a kimchi grilled ‘cheeze’ toastie sits overleaf from a Turkish brunch spread, otherwise known as kahvalti.

The chapter on dressings and pickles showcases the abundance of plant-based condiments that can enliven any dish. A Korean-style glaze can be made in batches and kept in the fridge for up to two weeks and can be used as a dip, a stir-fry sauce or as a glaze for a meat-alternative main. But for those wanting to really sharpen their vegan skills, leek and pine nut gnocchi gratin is a great place to start or the chermoula cauliflower galette, which can be made into a beautiful table centrepiece or cut up as part of a light deli lunch (see recipe).

Plant-based, with inclusive gluten-free and alcohol-free recipes, but utterly un-preachy in its approach, this recipe book should be studied by any mainstream chef who is committed to diversifying their culinary repertoire.

Mildreds Easy Vegan by Sarah Wasserman and Alessandra Malacarne (Hamlyn, £26)