Book review: Cherry Blossom by Dave J Critchley

In Cherry Blossom Liverpudlian chef Dave J Critchley shares dishes developed as a result of his training in China under Master Wu

The book, he says, is “not a Chinese cook book”, adding that despite graduating from his apprenticeship under Wu he is still at the beginning of his journey to learn the country’s ancient culinary arts.

A Chinese cook book it may not be, but it is a personal and touching account of Critchley’s journey in hospitality, featuring recipes for some hugely enticing dishes served at his Liverpool restaurant Lu Ban. Jasmine smoked pork baby ribs appear slightly charred and sticky, meat falling invitingly from the bone, while soy steamed halibut is served with ginger, garlic and peppers and mapo tofu in a deep red sauce of fermented black beans, broad bean paste, chilli, ginger and garlic.

Critchley believes the cherry blossom from which he takes the name for his debut book chimes with the food he cooks, and it’s easy to see why. There is a lightness of touch in presentation and a fragrance that wafts from the page. Take a dish of smoked chicken and sweetcorn flavoured with jasmine tea and wood chips, or Chinese pear poached with vanilla, star anise and Szechuan pepper and served with Jinhua ham.

As well as chapters on snacks, soups, dumplings, desserts, small and large plates there’s a great cocktail section created with Jay ‘Tender mix’, featuring the likes of an Old Fashioned with smoked tea and a ‘flavourtism’, which brings together caramel, banana crème de cacao and vanilla. There are moments, however, when the production of the book slightly lets it down, for example the mis-titling of a chapter of meat-free dishes as ‘meat and poultry’, or occasions when additional instructions on cooking times and techniques would ease entry for those who have never set foot in a professional kitchen. But this shouldn’t detract from the beauty of the recipes it contains and the obvious creativity and talent of its author.

Cherry Blossom by Dave J Critchley (A Way With Media, £35)