Menuwatch: Lewtrenchard Manor, Okehampton, Devon

A sense of fun permeates the classic menu, infusing it with unexpected twists and flavours, says Amanda Afiya

 

Nestled in a valley beneath Dartmoor’s famous tors, Lewtrenchard Manor in Lewdown, Devon, just five miles from the Cornwall border, has an enviable larder to draw on, both within its spectacular grounds and in the surrounding region.

 

The manor house as we know it dates back to the 1600s and has been in the hands of hoteliers Sue and James Murray, on and off, since 1988 (it spent nine years in the noughties as part of the Von Essen group). But it returned to the fold in 2012 and today the Jacobean manor house is very much a family affair with son Duncan leading the team as director, general manager and curator of wine.

 

The decor is everything you would expect from a property of this age – dark wooden panelling throughout, while stucco ceilings, oil paintings, antiques and large drapes embellish the labyrinth of public spaces on the ground floor. And yet, the 13-bedroom hotel is surprisingly light and airy.

 

 

The kitchen is the domain of Falkirk-born head chef David Brown, who joined the property in March 2021 to oversee the 40-seat restaurant (split over two rooms) and a chef’s table for eight in the Purple Carrot private dining room, which has views onto the kitchen. Following a diverse career covering the length and breadth of the country, as well as most industry sectors, Brown has brought with him a contemporary style of cuisine, classically rooted and built on flavours, textures and a sense of fun.

 

“Flavour is key,” says Brown, whose CV includes periods at Gleneagles in Auchterarder, Duisdale House in South Skye, and Cotswolds Inns and Hotels. “We source the finest ingredients to serve alongside our own produce from the kitchen garden, which is probably the best kitchen garden I’ve seen. We pull up veg on the day that we’re going to use it – it doesn’t get any better than that.”

 

Brown and his brigade of seven work hand in glove with Martin Ashley, Lewtrenchard’s dedicated gardener, to serve a daily changing table d’hote menu (£65 for three courses) and a seven-course tasting menu (£85 per person and £38.50 for a complementary wine flight).

 

 

New to the menu this month is a dish centred around Orkney scallop, typically served with a Martín Códax Albariño from Salnés Valley, Raís Baixas, Spain (£7 for 125ml or £39 for the bottle), paired with celeriac from the garden. “We get these lovely, extra-large scallops sent down from Scotland, which we serve with a celeriac and vanilla purée, pickled celeriac, celeriac oil made from the leaf, a slice of Ibérico ham, and dressed with aerated oyster cream sauce to give a real lightness to the dish.”

 

Equally playful is a savoury Swiss roll starter made from duck liver and gingerbread, served with miso-fermented plums, marinated beetroot (also from the garden), a beetroot and raspberry ice-cream, and gingerbread croutons to give a bit of crunch. “It’s important to me that we have fun while we’re here to work,” says Brown. “We’re in the kitchen for many hours a day and it’s hard work, so it’s important we enjoy it.”

 

 

Another witty starter – coronation chicken of the woods, mango, apricot, satay – is a play on the classic Constance Spry and Rosemary Hume recipe, created for Queen Elizabeth II’s 1953 coronation. “But it’s made with chicken of the woods mushrooms instead of chicken,” says Brown. “The mushrooms are marinated in buttermilk and fried with a spiced flour coating and served with a little satay sauce and some chutney made from poached mango.”

 

 

An assorted wine list from around the world features a mix of “expected wines” as well as some “for the more adventurous”.

 

“Although not a small list, I try to keep it to a size that does not overwhelm less-knowledgeable guests while still offering enough to interest a connoisseur,” explains Duncan. “We have a fairly large range of wines by the glass or bottle in the ‘house wine’ and ‘picks from the list’ sections, which can help those who do not want to go deeper into the list, but most of our wines are under £60.”

 

And while the list may not be as keenly priced as it was pre-Covid and Brexit, Duncan endeavours to give good value for money, with wines starting at just under £30 alongside a few high-end options for those guests who want to splash out.

 

From the menu

 

Starters

• Coronation chicken of the woods, mango, apricot, satay
• Duck liver parfait, Swiss roll and ice-cream
• Quail, spelt, butternut squash, coffee jus

 

Mains

• Devon venison loin, braised haunch, cabbage, gnocchi
• Squab pigeon pie, black pudding, foie royale, red cabbage
• Brassica tart, mustard and herb potato, soy jus

 

Desserts

• White chocolate and truffle “Magnum”
• Pumpkin purée, pumpkin cake,
• spiced orange
• Mushroom tiramisu, marsala, shitake, chocolate

 

Three courses, £65

 

Lewdown, Okehampton, Devon EX20 4PN

 

www.lewtrenchard.co.uk