Michelin predictions: experts reveal their tips for stars in 2025

Tomás Gormley, chef patron, Cardinal, Edinburgh

Cail Bruich

 

“I’d love to see more Michelin stars awarded in Scotland this year. Hosting the ceremony in Glasgow is a huge win for both the city and the country.

 

“I’d particularly love to see Lorna [McNee] at Cail Bruich in Glasgow earn a second star, and I believe Fallachan in Glasgow and Lyla in Edinburgh are both more than deserving of at least one.

 

“Beyond being the ultimate recognition of a chef’s skill and talent, these awards also bring a significant boost in business – something many small, independent operators truly deserve, especially in such challenging times for hospitality.”

 

Hywel Jones, executive chef and director of food and beverage, Restaurant Hywel Jones at Lucknam Park, part of Relais & Chateaux, Chippenham

Amelia Eiriksson and Gareth-Ward of Ynyshir. Eleonora Boscarelli Photography

 

“Nathan Cornwell at the Silver Birch in Chiswick is an extremely talented young chef who deserves to be recognised. It’s long overdue for Douglas Balish at Grove of Narberth in Pembrokeshire too, and I hope to see Tom Simmons awarded a star at Thomas by Tom Simmons where he’s cooking to an incredibly high level. For me, it’s the best restaurant in Cardiff by a country mile.

 

“Ynyshir by Gareth Ward in Eglwys Fach could be on track for three stars. I think what he has created, and the uniqueness of his food, really sets him apart.”

 

Aaron Patterson, chef-director, Hambleton Hall, part of Relais & Châteaux, Rutland

Claude Bosi

 

“My prediction for three stars would be Claude Bosi at Bibendum in Fulham in London – his food is very elegant and sophisticated. I’m not sure if it is too early to predict as he hasn’t been open long, but Chris Denney’s restaurant, Fantômas in Chelsea, is fantastic and definitely worth a Michelin star.”

 

Shaun Rankin, chef-patron, Shaun Rankin at Grantley Hall, Ripon

The Box Tree

 

“My first pick would be Brayden Davies at the Box Tree in Ilkley. Brayden is a fantastic chef and has previously worked at Shaun Rankin at Grantley Hall, where he spent two years as my sous chef. His food looks phenomenal and I’d love to see his talents recognised.

 

“I’d also highlight Tom Barnes at Skof in Manchester. He’s spent many years honing his skills under the direction of Simon Rogan and I’ve heard incredible things about Skof, his first solo venture. What I’ve seen on social media looks outstanding – I definitely need to make the trip there soon!”

Stephen Hayes, culinary director, Cashel Palace hotel, part of Relais & Châteaux, Tipperary

Chez Hans. www.facebook.com/chezhans/photos

 

“It’s always difficult to predict these kinds of things, but there are definitely a couple of restaurants that I’ve dined in recently that I feel deserve a look-in.

 

“Lignum in Galway is probably my favourite restaurant in the country. The style of the food, the ambience, as well as the impeccable and personable service provided by the hosts, make it top of my list. I believe it is well-deserving of one star.

 

“Chez Hans, our neighbour in Cashel, has been a culinary stalwart in this part of the country for longer than I have been alive. It’s a beautiful family-run business that is deserving of all of its accolades. I would love to see it win a star again this year.

 

“There have been a few other whispers that I’ve heard through the grapevine, one being the Morrison Room in Carton House and the other is Allta in Dublin. I haven’t dined in either, but the food looks extremely tasty in both and it wouldn’t be a surprise to see them included too.”

 

Yannick Alléno, chef, Pavyllon London at Four Seasons Hotel London at Park Lane

Josephine

 

“Josephine by chef Claude Bosi, led by Matteo [Degola] in Fulham in London, is a shining example of Lyonnaise cuisine that balances tradition and innovation. The frogs’ legs in garlic butter are so well-executed and super tasty – it truly deserves its first star this year.

 

“Row on 5 by Jason Atherton in Mayfair stands out with its exceptional ingredients and bold execution. The technical ability of Spencer, previous chef at the Ritz London, combined with experience of my talented, dear friend Jason Atherton, is a combination that deserves two stars.”

 

Graham Squire, executive chef, the Goring hotel, London

Mark Birchall at Moor Hall

 

“I believe we’ll see some exciting developments in this year’s Michelin announcements. I expect Moor Hall in Sutton Coldfield under Mark Birchall to achieve the coveted three-star status – every dish there demonstrates a masterful balance of elegance and opulence that’s truly world-class.

 

“I think the newly opened Row on 5 by Jason Atherton is likely to jump straight to two stars. They’ve clearly spared no expense in their pursuit of excellence and it shows in every aspect of the dining experience.

 

“I also think Kirk Howarth’s Plates in Shoreditch is poised to earn its first star, which would be a significant milestone demonstrating that plant-based cuisine can achieve the highest levels of culinary distinction.

 

“Sael in St James’ Market in London could also join the ranks of one-star establishments this year.”

The critics and industry experts

Chitra Ramaswamy, restaurant critic for The Times Scotland

Gary Townsend

 

“The food scene in Glasgow continues to go from strength to strength, so I’m not remotely surprised that the Michelin ceremony will be held in Glasgow this year.

 

“I have particularly high hopes for Fallachan, which last year I described as ‘the most exciting chef’s table in Scotland’. Located under an old railway arch, seating just 12, and presided over by ex-private chef Craig Grozier, it’s immersive dining in the most literal sense.

 

“In Edinburgh, Lyla, Stuart Ralston’s fourth restaurant in the capital, is his best yet. Elegant, seafood-focused, exquisitely plated, it totally deserves a star.

 

“I also love Elements, a new fine dining neighbourhood restaurant in Bearsden and the first solo venture by one of Scotland’s top chefs, Gary Townsend. It isn’t intimidating, it’s hyper-seasonal, has the most impressive herb cabinet I’ve come across, and the fish cookery is outstanding.”

 

Richard Vines, former chief food critic at Bloomberg

Cocochine. Photography: Justin De Souza

 

“Over the years, I’ve been about as successful at predicting Michelin stars as Faithfuls are at picking Traitors, but the two most obvious candidates would be for Jason Atherton and Spencer Metzger’s Row on 5 in Mayfair to go straight to two stars, and for Larry Jayasekara’s Cocochine in Mayfair to be recognised.

 

“Beyond that, two of my best meals of 2024 were at Ambassadors Clubhouse in Mayfair and Cloth in Farringdon – I hope they win stars. As a sentimentalist, and a fan of Raymond Blanc, I’d be very happy if Belmond Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons in Oxfordshire was finally awarded a third star in its 40th anniversary year. One lives in hope.”

 

Thom Hetherington, founder of hospitality consultancy Landing Light

Higher Ground

 

“Michelin may span the world, but my vision remains focused on the north of England and the regions. I think we have the talent and potential to be optimistic about further recognition.

 

“In Manchester, Skof has hit the ground sprinting like Usain Bolt fearing he’s left the iron on and is surely heading for a first star. Indeed, two stars has been discussed and would not be without precedent. Elsewhere around the city, Higher Ground continues to deliver at a stellar level, and to me it feels akin to the starred Brat in London and Timberyard in Edinburgh.

 

“I don’t hear a lot of chat about Liverpool, a city which has never held a Michelin star, yet arguably its current line-up of fine dining is the strongest ever. 8 By Andrew Sheridan and Vetch tick Michelin’s boxes, while Paul and Charlotte [Durand] bring a proven pedigree to Manifest. Nord has also raised its game and Paul Askew continues his paean to classicism at the Art School. We shall see.

 

“And beyond that? In the Lakes Simon Rogan’s Henrock feels effortlessly star quality to me, while Where the Light Gets In in Stockport is already on Michelin’s radar and has held a green star for several years. Across the Pennines in Sheffield, Jöro has plush new premises to match its accomplished cooking. If not this year maybe next?

 

“But personally, I’d love to see another UK three-star, and as Michelin awarded a first ever third star to a restaurant outside of London and Bray in 2022, to L’Enclume in Cartmel, I’d like it to keep that regional momentum going. Moor Hall is arguably the most complete dining experience in the UK and Ynyshir is exceptional in every sense. Both could do it.”

 

Andy Hayler, restaurant critic and writer

Cornus. Photography: Ian Walton

 

“’Predictions are difficult, especially about the future’, said Niles Bohr, Nobel Laureate, but that said, I would expect to see stars for Cocochine in Mayfair and Cornus in Belgravia. Row on 5 is already operating at a very high level, so I would expect to see a star or two in due course, but it may have opened too late for this guide. Michelin is increasingly unpredictable, so other than those I am not sure. I’d like to see the Ritz London get a second star, but Michelin seems somehow blind to the quality of the cooking there.”

 

Lowri Cooke, Welsh restaurant writer and critic

Jackdaw

 

“Like many, I’m being more mindful, saving up for the odd gastro trip, but the difference is that I’m now far more inclined to spend my money exploring the various food cultures of Wales. There are so many incredible moments to be enjoyed here, from chef Daniel Griffiths’ exquisite scallop starter on the Dwyryd estuary at Gwesty Portmeirion to the freshly caught Pembrokeshire crab linguine at the Sailor’s Safety in Pwllgwaelod and the incredible 10-course tasting menu – a proper culinary experience – at Annwn in Arberth.

 

“In my home city of Cardiff, what immediately leaps to mind is the memory last summer of two fantastically priced lunchtime menus. Tom Waters’ contemporary Welsh offerings at Gorse in Pontcanna are not to be missed, nor are the delights to be found at Andy Aston and Lewis Dwyer’s Hiraeth Kitchen in Victoria Park. If I had to choose just one stand-out experience from 2024, it would be chef Lewis Dwyer’s white chocolate and caramel choux dessert [at Hiraeth Kitchen in Cardiff].

 

“I’m usually keen to spill the beans about every great Welsh restaurant in the fervent hope of our many talents being recognised far and wide, but I honestly don’t know about any stars this year, as we’re mostly just ignored by London-based critics (plus ça change!). However, that actually makes Wales a prize to discover for yourself. But, putting my professional hat on, I’m fairly confident we won’t be losing any accolades and, if anything, we’ll win some more green stars – sustainability is key here in Wales.

 

“As for me, I’m already planning a trip to Jackdaw in Conwy and Sheep and Leeks in Caernarfon in the next few months. And I’m curious to see what Beach House’s Hywel Griffith and crew have to offer at Lan y Mor in Llanusyllt (Saundersfoot).”

 

Be sure to read The Caterer’s coverage of the Michelin ceremony on 10 February. 

 

Top image: Andrei Antipov/Shuttterstock