Book review: Gelupo Gelato, by Jacob Kenedy
London-born Jacob Kenedy learned how to make gelato in Bologna's famed Il Gelatauro during a year spent travelling around Italy. In 2008, he opened Bocca di Lupo in London's Soho, followed by a neighbouring gelateria in 2010, described as Bocca's "sweeter little sister". Eleven years later, Kenedy has released a much-anticipated instruction manual for his sophisticated gelato recipes.
After introductory pages dedicated to the "joy of gelato", with a checklist of necessary equipment and an all-important glossary, Kenedy provides a "frosty masterclass", with the remainder of the book dedicated to gelato, semifreddo and granita recipes. Traditional flavours (think milk chocolate, hazelnut, pistachio and blood orange) sit alongside unexpected combinations such as Aperol granita, yogurt and lemongrass, and banana stracciatella. A Neapolitan slice makes a welcomed appearance, updating the nostalgic dessert into a semifreddo, while a recipe for halwa ice-cream touches on the flavours of the classic sesame nougat from the Middle East.
An index page highlights vegan recipes and a crucial tip sheet provides advice on pairing flavours. The remaining pages feature a scattering of Kenedy's thoughts on topics including ‘ice-cream cones, etc' and ‘delicious things with gelato in', such as an ice-cream sandwich and sgroppino – a dessert cocktail made from sorbet. One single sauce – Grandpa's chocolate sauce – is provided, which Kenedy claims is the only sauce worth making, created simply from 70% dark chocolate and water.
This playful book uses bold colours and graphical illustration throughout. Some may despair at the lack of photography, but this simple technique, combined with its small size, means this is an informative book on iced desserts one can turn to time and time again, rather than a hefty coffee table tome.
Released at the height of the British summer, there's never been a better time to dust off the ice-cream maker and experiment with some different desserts.
Gelupo Gelato by Jacob Kenedy (Bloomsbury, £14.99)
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