Book review: Manu: Recipes and Stories from My Brazil

Manoella Buffara's debut cookbook Manu has deep roots in her personal culinary heritage

In the city of Curitiba, Brazilian chef Manoella ‘Manu’ Buffara has received acclaim for creating a restaurant that has deep roots in her personal culinary heritage, while simultaneously turning expectations on their head.

In her debut book, Manu, a name shared with her restaurant, she gives a full account of her culinary journey, from meals savoured in her grandmother’s kitchen to time spent training in Italy, stages at Noma with René Redzepi, and the challenges she faced in establishing her own business back in Brazil. As well as relaying her experiences with candour, Manu provides a fascinating insight into Buffara’s creativity that will intrigue admirers of her work.

The chef’s upbringing and the influences she has absorbed mean her cuisine defies simple definition. For example, Buffara’s love for seafood was ignited by her maternal grandmother, who was Italian, but who would also prepare Lebanese dishes, which she had learned from her mother-in-law. The chef also credits her time at Noma for shaping her love of foraging and utilising every part of produce.

This myriad of influences is evident in Buffara’s explanation of her vision for the restaurant. She says: “I wanted to invite [guests] to leave their comfort zones: to experience traditional flavours in different outfits and be surprised by unusual textures and combinations.”

The recipes are set out as collections from menus she has served at the restaurant and showcase her desire to subvert. For example, a dish of tuna, lard and watermelon is accompanied by a white sauce made from Brazil nuts, coconut water and emerina native bee honey as well as tucupi oil. Another sees grouper served with bone marrow and peach palm, which has been juiced before being heated with vinegar, butter and salt, while a dessert of strawberry sorbet is served with a seaweed salsa and topped with lemon and dill oils.

While recipes have been adapted for the home kitchen and will serve four, the book will delight professional chefs, with frank insights that are both insightful and fascinating.

Manu: Recipes and Stories from my Brazil by Manoella Buffara (Phaidon, £39.95)