The head sommelier at the Five Fields, London, on the reliability of Riesling, the importance of travel and never being discouraged
What makes a good sommelier?
You should be a people person, compassionate, open-minded and thirsty for knowledge. A good sommelier is a good listener, communicator and host – and a bit of a psychologist at times. We are in the service industry, and we should take pride in that.
What are your favourite food and wine pairings?
Simple ones. Champagne and fried food, Comté cheese and vin jaune. But when in doubt I always choose Riesling.
What’s your best wine find of the past 12 months?
2009 Cuvée Misawa Cabernet Franc, Grace Winery, Yamanashi, Japan. I was familiar with their fantastic white wines, but this is lovely and well crafted. I have also enjoyed 2013 Blaufränkisch Lutzmannsburg Alte Reben, Moric, Austria. More proof (if we ever needed it) that Blaufränkisch is a classic noble variety and should capture the imagination of the wider public.
Which wine can’t you do without on your list?
Whites and reds of Burgundy.
Your guiltiest wine pleasure?
Kabinett Riesling for breakfast on a hot summer day.
How do you develop your knowledge and skills?
I try to have a realistic study schedule, breaking bigger subjects into smaller blocks and being consistent with the hours I put in. It takes a certain discipline but to see progress is very rewarding.
I go to wine tastings and exchange ideas with other sommeliers and my restaurant guests. I also read wine magazines and follow different online platforms for current news.
However, I believe there is no better education than travel. To see the wine region, talk to winemakers and eat local food gives you a deeper understanding and stays in your mind forever.
Who is your biggest inspiration and what did you learn from them?
Laure Patry, executive head sommelier for Jason Atherton’s Social Company. Her dedication and passion is unmatched. The most important lessons I have learned from her are to always give 100%, stay focused, never take shortcuts, nor let setbacks discourage you.
Which sommeliers do you admire?
Get ready for a long list as the UK sommelier scene is blessed with so many great talents: Claire Thevenot, Kathrine Larsen, Melania Battiston, Ronan Sayburn, Isa Bal, Lukasz Kolodziejczyk, Terry Kandylis, Olivier Marie, Matteo Montone, Gearoid Devaney, Matt Wilkin, Stefan Neumann, Angelo Altobelli and Nicolas Clerc to name a few. The new talents that came on my radar recently are Emma Denney, Mark Patana and Philipp Reinstaller.
How has the sommelier’s role changed in the past three years?
There is a shift towards a more relaxed, open-minded approach, with the focus on building a genuine connection with guests. The contemporary sommelier has an eye towards more flexibility and diversity. I think we have reached the perfect balance now between the traditional and modern approach, taking the best of both worlds.
What advice would you give a front of house colleague considering training to be a sommelier?
Follow your passion and everything will naturally fall in place. Be humble and stay curious. Always continue to study, go to tastings, and visit wine regions. Put in the hours – hard work always pays off. There are some great institutions like the Court of Master Sommeliers, WSET and Association de la Sommellerie Internationale to help you on the journey.
What new skills have you developed this year?
I have improved my stress management and public speaking.
What’s your goal for 2023?
I’d like to learn more about sake and tea. I’m also planning to start my preparations for UK Sommelier of the Year 2023. I had so much fun participating this year and am very pleased with finishing second. It’s an honour to perform in front of industry legends and a great learning experience.
Agnieszka Swiecka finished second in the Taittinger UK Sommelier of the Year 2022. The competition recognises the very finest talent in wine service. Organised by The Caterer and recognised by the Association de la Sommellerie Internationale, the competition is open to professional sommeliers and waiting staff working in the UK.
Candidates are judged on their wine and drink expertise as well as their ability to deal efficiently and knowledgeably with customers by demonstrating exemplary front of house skills. Entries for next year will be invited in January 2023.