Britain’s national press turned on vegan food in 2023: “Has the vegan bubble burst?” The Guardian asked in May; “Expensive, over-processed and flavourless: why we’ve fallen out of love with vegan products,” wrote The i in June; “Has fake meat reached its expiration date?’ queried The Independent in August; and “How the vegan bubble burst,” reported The Times in the same month, in the process neatly answering The Guardian’s question.

 

Depending on your perspective, this sort of coverage represents either a genuine expression of public opinion or a classic example of the British inclination to build ’em up and knock ’em down. What is undeniable, though, is that some of the signifiers don’t look great: sales down during Veganuary; products withdrawn from sale due to lack of interest; and too many companies competing for too few customers.

 

The poster boy for all this is, or was, Meatless Farm, producers of vegan mince, which collapsed ignominiously in June. It was bought out of administration the same month by VFC (which stands for Vegan Fried Chickn), a clear demonstration of faith in the brand and in plant-based meat alternatives, which appear to have suffered more than other vegan options this year.

 

“Twelve months ago it looked like there was going to be a market correction and that’s now happened. The market’s not growing as quickly,” insists Dave Sparrow, chief executive of VFC and Meatless Farm. “Vegan businesses are struggling, but it’s the same for a lot of other categories. I think it’ll bounce back once people feel they have a little more disposable income.”

 

Whichever way you see it, this marks a potential turning point for vegan food in this country. The early thrill has worn off, but that doesn’t necessarily mean an era of growth is over. So what happens next?

 

 

Three becomes one

 

Since buying Meatless Farm, VFC has added Clive’s Purely Plants to its vegan portfolio. It may in the long run end up being a more significant move, since it arguably represents a shift away from plant-based meat alternatives to a veg-led approach, with the focus more on health than fun and indulgence.

 

“VFC is very much an alternative chicken brand, which is quite indulgent,” says Sparrow, who became VFC chief executive in April last year. “Meatless Farm is complementary to alternative protein and meat substitutes and it traded with all our existing customers, so the synergy was obvious. As the category has evolved, health and wellbeing [has become the key to] how we want to live our lives… Clive’s gave us an opportunity to move away from meat alternatives and look at more clean and natural ingredients.”

 

And while Sparrow’s diverse portfolio is focused largely on retail, 20% of its sales are in foodservice, supplying a diverse range of caterers that runs the gamut from YO! to London North Eastern Railway. In this world, Sparrow says, it’s Meatless Farm that’s most important.

 

“Foodservice [has] accelerated very quickly for us over the past six months,” he says. “And, to be frank, that’s probably due to the introduction of Meatless Farm. It’s a unique set of products – it’s high in protein, high in fibre and, crucially, it doesn’t contain allergens, which is so important in foodservice.”

 

Sparrow, who insists Meatless Farms’ financial problems have been solved by streamlining and integrating the production process with VFC’s, says he’s now able to offer those companies it already works with much greater choice. “We’re focused on saving animals’ lives – so for instance, with TGI Fridays, how do we get it to take more products? The biggest impact for us is working with high-volume, high-footfall accounts.”

 

Processed and ultra-processed foods are the food world’s current bogeyman, under suspicion for everything from the obesity crisis to the disappearance of Lord Lucan. Vegan meat substitutes have occasionally been accused of falling into this category – they often have quite a lengthy ingredient list – but Sparrow isn’t convinced.

 

“Vegan products have less processing and [they cause] less harm and environmental disruption than traditional meats. I don’t buy into this notion that it’s over-processed, and therefore has a negative effect.” One of the advantages of having three separate companies is they offer an overview of the vegan market right now. Vegan consumers are more varied than some might assume, Sparrow says. “VFC is very much the younger generation – it’s more rebellious and concerned about the environment. Meatless Farm is more a cautious family householder looking to make healthy choices, and Clive’s is someone who’s looking for a clean diet and has been for some time. It’s a more mature brand.”

 

Sustainable game-changers

 

VFC is far from the only player in the alternative meat category, of course. There’s also American brand Beyond Meat, which launched its plant-based Beyond Burger Chicken-Style to UK wholesaler Brakes this July, with Beyond Steak following last month, when it won Gold in the Innovation Challenge at the Casual Dining Show. Judges described the steak pieces, which are made from wheat gluten and broad beans, as a “sustainable game-changer.”

 

Redefine Meat’s products, meanwhile, are available through eight distributors (Albion Fine Foods, Braehead Foods, Brakes, Classic Fine Foods, Elite Fine Foods, Food Republic, Forest Produce and Zebra Plant Based) and include flank steak, lamb kofta, slow-cooked pulled pork, burger and mince.

 

 

“As a massive meat lover myself, I’m always dubious about meat-free alternatives, so if I have been won over, I’m sure your customers will be too,” says Craig Stevenson, managing director at Braehead Foods. “Redefine Meat products are a game-changer to our meat-free offering, bringing products to our portfolio that are attractive as both meat alternatives and replacements. Our initial feedback from customers has been fantastic and I look forward to rolling out a core range this summer.”

 

Americana, a brand within Lantmännen Unibake, has recently released a Japanese teriyaki bean burger, informed by research into street food. “Veganism continues to offer an array of opportunities when it comes to enticing consumers through the door,” says Samantha Winsor, marketing manager. “Venues shouldn’t shy away from offering a range of plant-based dishes on their menus all year round, and especially in January, when there is a natural spike in interest.”

 

Squeaky Bean, meanwhile, offers a variety of meat replacement options that can be used in various ways. “Operators can easily use our diced chicken and bacon-style pieces to transform pastas, risottos and pizzas into vegan-friendly dishes,” says Helen Bowyer, commercial director at the Compleat Food Group, which owns Squeaky Bean. “They can also use our meat alternatives as the centrepiece too, whether that’s piling our Salt Beef Pieces and pickles into a tasty bagel or creating vegan versions of popular dishes with our Steak Style Strips, such as Philly Cheese Steak or loaded fries.”

 

 

Snack attack

 

It’s not all about meat alternatives, though. Central Foods has recently launched its Menuserve gluten-free, vegan Asian prawn snack selection, made from young jackfruit, vegetables and Asian spices. “The selection features three different varieties of snack – the torpedo, which is a filo-wrapped vegan prawn, the breaded, a crumbed vegan prawn, and the bubble, a battered vegan prawn,” says Gordon Lauder, managing director.

 

“Tapas, small plates and street food-style dining really lend themselves to plant-based dishes and these are all trends that are currently popular, helping to encourage the growing interest in vegan food,” he adds.

 

Tipiak is on a similar tip, offering a range of vegan French canapés. “Our vegan cocktail selection has been designed to be so tasty and eye-catching that the range appeals to all, regardless of whether they are vegan or not,” says Marie-Emmanuelle Chessé, international development project manager.

 

 

Oliver Briault, Maple from Canada UK’s recipe development chef, says maple syrup is a great way to elevate vegan food. “With its earthy taste, pure Canadian maple syrup goes well with robust flavours and spices,” he says. “A tablespoon or so is a simple way to lift a salad or drizzle over charcoal-cooked vegetables. It’s also a great addition to many dishes where meat has been replaced with a plant-based substitute.”

 

Aviko has launched Chilli Cheezz Bites, which are made from potato and offer a creamy ‘cheese’ filling, gently spiced with green jalapeño peppers. “These work across a range of menus and serving options, including starters, sharers or as sides,” says Mohammed Essa, commercial director, Aviko UK & Ireland. “Oozing with gooey ‘cheese’ on the inside, they tick the box of convenience for operators, needing only three and a half minutes in the fryer.”

 

Despite the troubles of the past 12 months, there clearly continues to be a huge range of vegan options. For Sparrow, the next step is education. “I don’t feel our customer base truly knows what they need, what they’re looking for and what the consumers expect,” he says. “But I think we have an obligation now to be that partner, to be able to help, so the consumers continue to get what they want.”

 

 

Suppliers

 

Aviko www.aviko.co.uk

 

Beyond Meat www.beyondmeat.com

 

Central Foods centralfoods.co.uk

 

Clive’s www.clivespies.com

 

Lantmännen www.lantmannen.com

 

Maple From Canada www.maplefromcanada.co.uk

 

Meatless Farm meatlessfarm.com

 

Redefine Meat www.redefinemeat.com/uk

 

Squeaky Bean www.squeakybean.co.uk

 

Tipiak www.tipiakfoodservice.co.uk

 

VFC vfcfoods.com