Recipe of the week: Bacalao fritters, orange blossom honey, orange alioli

Discover the recipe for bacalao fritters from Bar 44 – Tapas y Copas by Owen and Tom Morgan

 

In the days before refrigeration, drying was a common method of preserving fish, in this case cod, but the technique is used to this day because it produces such wonderful results, giving the rehydrated fish a completely different texture from their fresh cousins. In the past it was the only safe way to transport fish across the country without it going off, so it is as popular in inland cities as it is around the coast.

 

This is a classic recipe, using the thin tail or belly cuts. There’s no need to be fancy or creative with it, as there’s something comforting and even nostalgic about standing at a bar eating something simple with a glass of cold beer or Fino. It always delivers a delicious mixture of salty, sweet and savoury flavours.

 

Serves 10

• 250g salt cod tail or belly, washed in cold running water, then soaked for 48-72 hours, with the water changed every 24 hours
• 100ml full-fat milk
• 100ml double cream
• 1 garlic clove
• 1 bay leaf
• 200g potatoes, such as Desirée, Maris Piper or King Edward, peeled and cut into equal-sized pieces
• Light olive oil or rapeseed oil, for frying
• Plain flour, for dusting
• Orange blossom honey, for drizzling

 

For the orange alioli

• 1 quantity alioli (see below)
• Juice and finely grated zest of
• 1 orange

 

Place the rehydrated fish in a saucepan with the milk, cream, garlic and bay leaves. Bring to the boil, then simmer for 20 minutes, or until tender. Transfer the fish to a plate and set aside.

 

Add the potatoes to the milky liquid, cover and bring to the boil, then simmer until fork tender. The time will depend on the size of the potato pieces.

 

Meanwhile, place the alioli in a bowl and stir in the orange juice and zest. Set aside until needed. Drain the potatoes, reserving the liquid but removing the bay leaves. Leave the potatoes to dry in the colander for five minutes, before putting them through a potato ricer or mashing very thoroughly with a masher.

 

To make the fritters, pull the salt cod between your thumb and index finger, breaking it into fine flakes. Place them in a bowl, add the potato and mix well. Taste and add seasoning if required. Divide the mixture into 20 equal pieces, then roll them into ovals about 5cm long.

 

Heat the oil to 180°C in a deep-fat fryer. If using a saucepan, fill it one-third full with the oil and heat until a cube of bread browns in 40-45 seconds.

 

Roll the fritters in the flour, then fry in the oil for two minutes or until brown all over. This is best done in batches so as not to overcrowd the pan. Lift out with a slotted spoon, drain on kitchen paper and keep warm while you fry the remaining fritters.

 

To serve, place the fritters in a bowl or on a platter and drizzle with the honey.

 

Alioli recipe

 

Serves 8-10

 

This emulsified sauce takes its name from the words ali (garlic) and oli (oil), and there are still some very traditional places that make it with just those two ingredients. Elsewhere, they also add milk. Most recipes nowadays, though, add egg yolks to the basic ingredients. While ready made versions can be bought throughout Spain, the quality is highly variable, and besides, there is nothing quite like making your own with excellent eggs and oil.

• 4 garlic cloves
• 4 egg yolks
• 330ml rapeseed oil or good-quality vegetable oil
• 330ml extra virgin olive oil
• Juice of ½ a lemon, or more to taste
• Sea salt

 

Dice the garlic, then add a large pinch of sea salt and crush with the flat of a knife to make a fine paste.

 

Transfer the garlic to a large bowl, add the egg yolks and whisk vigorously to combine.

 

Pour both oils into a jug and add them to the eggs a drop at a time, whisking constantly. Keep going like this until you are confident the yolks and oil are emulsifying rather than separating. Now increase the oil to a steady drizzle, still whisking constantly, and eventually add it in a steady flow.

 

Once you have a mayonnaise consistency, add the lemon juice. Taste and add more salt and lemon juice to your liking.

 

Drinks pairing for bacalao fritters

 

A can of classic Estrella Galicia is excellent with bar snacks like this. Beware! It’s easy to order lots more of each!