Menuwatch: José Pizarro at the Royal Academy of Art, London

Simple, authentic Spanish cuisine forms the backbone of José Pizarro’s first central London restaurant, tucked away in an art gallery.

 

The eponymous restaurant at the Royal Academy of Arts is acclaimed Spanish chef José Pizarro’s first in the centre of London. It’s always been a dream of his, and as a restaurateur without financial backers, the arrangement to work alongside CH&Co at one of its flagship Company of Cook sites was something both parties were keen to develop.

 

Pizarro also operates the Poster Bar at the Royal Academy with its wall of pop art posters offering a coffee-shop vibe, and the success of this restaurant in the Senate Rooms has already been acknowledged by reviewers including The Times’ Giles Coren and Ajesh Pataly of the Financial Times.

 

Pizarro says his love of art contributes to the success of the partnership. “Art makes me think, it makes me fall in love, and it brings back memories. It makes me feel happy, and sometimes it makes me cry,” he says. Inspired by his surroundings and his passion for his country’s culture and ingredients he works with his kitchen team to elevate traditional Spanish dishes such as buñuelos de gambas (spicy prawn fritters with lemon aioli) priced at £11 and a pisto y huevo escalfado (slow-cooked aubergine, peppers and poached egg) for £6.

 

The 100% 5J acorn-fed jamón Ibérico available in 30g and 60g portions priced at £14 or £27 respectively, is a constant favourite at all his restaurants and sits as part of a lighter lunch menu.

 

 

“Our objective here was to create a menu for everyone. Somewhere where anyone can visit, no matter what their budget and in an environment where nothing takes away from the art. A simple menu in a relaxing setting,” he says.

 

Pizarro and his head chef Carlos Mariana work closely with CH&Co with complete autonomy to add their own twists to dishes, including a modern take on pulpo y romesco (octopus and dry Romesco vinaigrette with creamy potato and garlic chips) at £14. When at the stove at any of his restaurants he especially enjoys cooking fish, particularly underused species such as cuttlefish.

 

 

“Spanish cuisine is as much about the ingredients as it is about the chefs; it’s simple and humble and an eclectic mix of cultures: the Venetians, the Jews and the ingredients we bought back from the Americas.” “I’ve always celebrated the components of each dish, and that’s helped me in growing the brand here in the UK, by promoting the fantastic ingredients like our jamón Ibérico, our olive oils, our paprika and our vinegars.”

 

He is delighted to be importing wild white prawns from Spain and works alongside suppliers including Brindisa and Mevalco, but insists on buying from UK suppliers wherever possible. The chef has his own warehouse in south-east London that also provides a base for his box distribution business.

 

The desserts are creative, and a regular favourite with customers is the cheesecake, which is currently a tarta de queso vasca (Basque cheesecake with blueberries) at £7.50. Pizarro’s partner Peter has perfected (and shared) his recipe for the famous Santiago cake priced at £7 per portion.

 

Wines include some belters such as the sparkling José Pizarro Brut Nature ‘Gran Reserva’, Cataluña 2018 at £9.50 per glass and a delicious Pontellón, Adegas Tollodouro, Albariño, Rías Baixas 2019 at £8 per glass. There are eight in the brigade as well as Pizarro and his executive chef Monty Aguiló. The restaurant is currently only open for lunch and is producing 140 covers per day from Tuesday to Sunday.

 

His admiration for chefs like Angela Hartnett, Rick Stein and Tom Kerridge and friendship with Egyptian-born cookbook author and historian Claudia Roden as well as his previous business relationship with Monika Linton at Brindisa have stood him in good stead. The young chef that came to London over 23 years ago without a word of English and opened his first restaurant in May 2011 is about to launch his sixth book in the spring and his latest venture at the Royal Academy has returned the spotlight to one of London’s best chef imports.

 

From the menu

 

Cold tapas

 

Gordal olives stuffed with orange Almendras fritas £3.50

 

Cheese selection, picos, pear compote and quince £7/£13

 

Pickled white anchovies, garlic, parsley, Pizarro extra virgin olive oil £7

 

Pumpkin salad, orange and basil £7

 

Hot tapas

 

Wild white prawns with garlic and chilli £13

 

Cod in a traditional Catalan sauce with sautéed baby spinach £11

 

Slow cooked chorizo in red wine with quince £8.50

 

Hake with green sauce, peas, asparagus and clams £11

 

Desserts

 

Crema Catalana and passion fruit millefeuille £7.50

 

Royal Academy of Arts, 6 Burlington Gardens, London W1S 3ET

 

020 7300 5912

 

josepizarro.com/venues/jose-pizarro-royal-academy-arts/