Hotel Cateys 2021: Hotel Chef of the Year (fewer than 250 covers): Hrishikesh Desai

The winner of the Hotel Chef of the Year (fewer than 250 covers) award has transformed dining at Gilpin Hotel and Lake House in Windemere since arriving in 2015.

Hrishikesh Desai came to the north-west with expectations high, having won the Roux Scholarship and National Chef of the Year competitions in consecutive years. Just a year later he won a Michelin star for the Gilpin.

As executive chef and food and beverage manager, Desai oversees the Michelin-starred Hrishi restaurant, where he uses local produce to create modern British dishes with a twist. He also oversees Gilpin Spice, which serves tapas-style pan-Asian dishes, as well as private functions at the hotel’s Lake House.

Desai strives to constantly improve and refine the hotel’s three culinary arms. The Covid-19 pandemic didn’t stop or deflect this quest. He oversaw the refurbishment of the Hrishi kitchen, established a research and development kitchen, and launched an in-house takeaway service to keep his teams busy during the periods of lockdown.

When social distancing reduced the number of covers that could be served at Hrishi, he developed three rotating tasting menus. The initiative reduced food waste while ensuring variety for guests enjoying multiple-night stays.

At Gilpin Spice he developed a limited menu based on his own sauces, which were paired with a meat, fish or vegetable protein. This not only reduced labour and food costs but also preserved creativity. The initiatives were enthusiastically received by the hotel’s guests.

He has also developed a bento box concept for in-room dining and breakfast, further increasing variety for guests and giving flexibility as Covid-19 measures were adapted.

The chef carefully nurtures his team, producing bespoke training plans for individuals and teams alike. He also spends time in colleges and the local community promoting hospitality as a career. No wonder then that he was able to retain all the key members of his team during the lockdown periods and the subsequent reopening. Together, they have successfully retained Desai’s Michelin star and four AA rosettes, as well as expanding the accolade roster with the award of five AA red stars.

Our judges described Desai as a “driving force” for culinary excellence who has transformed the culinary offering of one of the Lake District’s great destination hotels.

What the judges said 

“Hrishikesh has been the driving force behind creating a truly unique gastronomic destination. His continuous drive for progression and refinement has helped to set him apart. And as well as all that, he is a true gentleman. A truly deserving winner of the Hotel Chef Catey.”

Adam Smith

“The quality, polish and achievements of the kitchen brigade at Gilpin speak for themselves and are a credit to Hrishikesh’s focus, determination and generosity. A true chef, a great guy, a worthy winner.”

Chris King

The shortlist

Douglas Balish The Grove of Narberth, Pembrokeshire

Hrishikesh Desai Gilpin Hotel and Lake House, Windermere

Past winners

2019 Lisa Goodwin-Allen, Northcote

2018 Adam Smith, Coworth Park

2017 André Garrett, Cliveden House, Taplow, Berkshire

2016 Phil Carmichael, Berners Tavern at the London Edition

2015 Matthew Tomkinson, the Montagu Arms hotel, Beaulieu, Hampshire

2014 Steve Smith, Bohemia, St Helier, Jersey

2013 Sam Moody, Bath Priory, Bath

2012 Richard Allen, Grand Jersey Hotel and Spa

2011 Adam Simmonds, Danesfield House Hotel and Spa, Marlow

2010 Shay Cooper, the Bingham, Richmond

2009 Kenny Atkinson, Seaham Hall Hotel and Serenity Spa

2008 Simon Radley, the Chester Grosvenor and Spa

2007 Hywel Jones, Lucknam Park