Calorie counts on menus could damage creativity, chef warns

A chef has warned that the introduction of calorie counts on menus could lead to more formulaic cooking and prove difficult for customers with eating disorders.

From 6 April hospitality businesses with more than 250 employees will have to list calorie information for each dish.

Items that are on the menu for less than 30 days will be exempt from the rule, but there are concerns it could stifle creativity in the kitchen.

Chef Sven-Hanson Britt, who runs Oxeye restaurant in London and won MasterChef: The Professionals Rematch in 2019, said: “I can imagine sales of some high-calorie dishes will drop then chefs will end up creating dishes to fit a certain number.

"Will there be a sweet spot where your main course is 400-500 calories because that’s what customers want? We will become detached from food and the heritage of cooking.”

The chef said he had never been asked about calorie content by customers but expected people to become more curious after the rules come into force. The daily recommended calorie intake for men is 2,500 and 2,000 for women.

“I’ve seen people on Twitter posting 2,600 calorie roast dinners and small soups that are 650 calories,” he said.

"The biggest issue with this whole thing is that it turns food into a number and exacerbates the massive crisis in this country with eating disorders. We should be teaching young people about nutrition instead.”

Contract caterer BaxterStorey, which serves food at over UK 700 locations, is introducing calorie counts on all menu items to ensure consistency but said the change would have “no impact” on its chef’s creativity or the diversity of its dishes.

The group is using the Nutritics software, which allows suppliers to input details of ingredients, to work out calorie content.

Ronan Harte, chief executive of BaxterStorey, said: “Of course, the customer is in control of the choices they make, and we will continue to offer a balance of options including a range of portion sizes, ingredients, and cooking techniques.”

Enforcing calorie labels

According to government guidance, councils are being given discretion on enforcing the rules and may issue improvement notices if they believe a business is not complying. Failure to act could then lead to a £2,500 fine.

It is understood ministers will review the regulations within five years and consider extending them to smaller businesses, which it is already encouraging to voluntarily adopt the plans.

A department of health and social care spokesperson said: “Obesity is one of the most significant challenges we face and we want to ensure people are equipped with the information they need to make more informed and healthier food choices.

“Displaying calorie information on menus can help people consume fewer calories when eating out or getting a takeaway, as well as encouraging businesses to provide lower calorie options for their customers.”

For advice on implementing the calorie legislation read The Caterer's in-depth feature on the issue.

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