As Manchester prepares to host this year's Michelin ceremony for the first time, we hear predictions from critics and chefs as to who might expect a new star
On 5 February, all eyes will be on Manchester when the Michelin Guide Great Britain and Ireland announces its new star selection for 2024.
This year's ceremony will be held at the Midland hotel, home to the Adam Reid at the French restaurant, and is expected to kick-off from 6pm. Recipients of Michelin stars, as well as green stars and special awards, will be announced at the event, which will be broadcast live on YouTube.
While the red book's decisions are notoriously difficult to predict – and there have been some surprises over the years – the decision to hold the event in Manchester for the first time has sparked speculation the city could be in line for more awards. And, despite it being a challenging year for operators across Britain and Ireland, there are still many restaurants that deserve recognition. The Caterer asked chefs and industry critics for their thoughts on who might be celebrating on 5 February.
The chefs
Ryan Blackburn, head chef, the Old Stamp House, Ambleside, Cumbria
"This year there has been quite a bit of movement in the hospitality industry, with some sadly notable closures. But things seem fairly buoyant in the north-west on the whole, and there's some serious talent out there.
"I think we'll see a few new additions in the shape of Farlam Hall in Brampton, North Cumbria, and Aven in Preston, North Lancashire. I'd also like to see the French in Manchester and Lake Road Kitchen in Ambleside in the Lake District pick up stars – they both really deserve to be recognised. On top of that I think Mark Birchall at Moor Hall in Aughton, Lancashire, deserves three. It was quite simply the best restaurant I've eaten at in quite a while – it's just the attention to detail – amazing!"
Cal Byerley and Ian Waller, chefs at Restaurant Pine, Newcastle upon Tyne
"For us, Jeremy Chan at Ikoyi in London is up there with the best. His West African-inspired flavours and skilful use of the very best British ingredients is totally innovative and often challenging, but that's why he's deserving of the next plaudit [three stars].
"Woven by Adam Smith at Coworth Park in Ascot is at the next level, and you can see it in Smith's food. He's got a perfect balance of precise classical beauty without being restrained too much by tradition – his food never stands still. Then there's Dan Cox at Crocadon Farm in Saltash, Cornwall. He's already won a green star and we feel he'll surely get something to accompany it this year. His soil-centric, farm-first food approach is the style of cooking we're both really excited about and there's no doubt Dan is the chef who is at the head of the pack with this philosophy."
Hrishikesh Desai, chef-patron, Farlam Hall, Brampton, Cumbria
"I feel Moor Hall, Restaurant Sat Bains in Nottingham and Ynyshir in Eglwys Fach, Ceredigion, are in contention for promotion from two to three stars. I also hope Adam Reid is recognised for his efforts at the French in Manchester and there are a few dark horses in Scotland who can bring surprise elements to the revelation. Overall, it is sad to hear the closures of some fantastic starred establishments due to tough conditions and I hope they get a chance to come back with a bang either this year or the next."
Paul Askew, chef patron and owner, the Art School, Liverpool
"At a time when our sector is battling against so many challenges, this year's Michelin ceremony coming to the north of England brings huge excitement and anticipation to the chefs and restaurants outside of London. It's seen as a really positive move to share the celebrations ‘up north' for the first time ever and this also brings anticipation of some successes that may come accordingly with this move.
"Firstly, Adam Reid must surely be in line for a star at the French in Manchester. Also here in the north, Moor Hall under Mark Birchall surely will soon achieve three stars. And having eaten there recently, a wild card entry could be Elliot Hill at the Arkle Restaurant in the Chester Grosvenor. Finally, if I had a wish for a bastion of cuisine down in the capital, then chef John Williams will hopefully be bestowed with two stars at the Ritz London. There's always hope for some big surprises to happen and there are some incredible places that should be in contention in Liverpool and Leeds too."
Daniel Willis and Johnny Smith, co-founders, Luca, London
"For London, we think that BiBi and Dorian are both definitely contenders for one star. Erst is also a Manchester favourite with brilliant and consistent cooking – we've had a number of great meals there, so we're excited to see what will happen over the next few years for them."
The critics
Richard Vines, former chief food critic at Bloomberg UK
"[In London] I hope the time has come for Ben Murphy at Launceston Place. PLU also deserves a star for Elliot Moss. Each year, I think the Ritz London under John Williams should get a second star."
Lowri Cooke, Welsh restaurant writer and critic
"During a very challenging year for restaurants in Wales, where we've seen a number of big names close – including SY23 in Aberystwyth, a favourite with locals in Ceredigion as well as international visitors – I've been thrilled to see the growing success of the Jackdaw in Conwy and Annwn in Arberth.
"Both chefs, Nick Rudge from Llandudno and Matt Powell – who is originally from Bridgend but who moved to Pembrokeshire over a decade ago – are currently at the forefront of Welsh regional cooking. I wouldn't be surprised to see either of them gaining a star, and although it's currently a pop-up (with plans for a permanent location), Gorse in Cardiff, Tom Waters' modern Welsh restaurant, definitely deserves a mention."
Andy Hayler, restaurant critic
"Such predictions are extremely difficult. [In London] I would expect to see stars for Brooklands by Claude Bosi – maybe even two stars – and Pavyllon – one star. I would like to see promotions for the Ritz London and the Dysart Petersham, but Michelin dance to the beat of their own drum."
Jay Rayner, restaurant critic, The Observer
"Michelin's greatest triumph has been to make people feel they own their rating system. Stars will go to the restaurants the inspectors, in their infinite, rather jaded wisdom, think deserve them."
