Taking guests on a journey of discovery with Eastern European wines

Operators play a key role in helping consumers to find their new favourite wine and there are many exciting new wine developments taking place in Eastern Europe. 

 

Neil McAndrew, a wine professional of more than 30 years and advisor to the European Union’s ‘More Than Only Food & Drink’ campaign, shares his advice on how restaurants can inspire and excite customers with a varied wine list.

 

“The vast majority of wine trends begin in the on-trade and having that unique point of contact with the customer is the perfect opportunity to introduce them to new tastes and experiences whilst gaining the benefit of immediate feedback,” explains Neil.

 

“Wine generally tastes better with food and offering wines that match a specific dish is a great way to introduce new emerging wine regions and take your customers on a journey of discovery which adds to the customers’ overall dining experience. By the glass offers the perfect format to promote lesser-known wines, and with staff trained in the ‘story’ of the region, producer and grape variety, it can really help to encourage experimentation.”

 

Neil adds: “Customers are often conservative in their choices due to a fear of making a mistake and ordering the wrong wine. They often say ‘they know what they like’ but in reality, most customers enjoy nothing more than discovering a new emerging wine and it can soon become their new favourite.”

 

Seek out the Eastern gems

 

Neil continues: “The evidence points to a growing willingness from UK consumers to be more adventurous in their wine selection. Where previously the classic regions would be first choice, a combination of factors including perceived value for money, the explosion of travel to emerging wine countries and a willingness to try something new is changing buying habits.”

 

Following social reform and better vine management, central and eastern European wine makers are returning to crafting wines of superior quality, such as those based in Bulgaria, Hungary and Romania.

 

 

Bulgaria: from antiquity to a dynamic wine culture

“Bulgarian winemaking history is older than the country itself. Wine was first produced in the region three millennia ago, and the Bulgarian Empire was not founded until 681 AD1. Its ancient vines produced some of the best wines in the world at the time but disease and communism led to many years of high yield, poor quality wines.”

 

“A renewed emphasis on quality rather than volume has salvaged the region’s indigenous grapes, of which Mavrud is likely the most famous. The crimson grapes are juicy with notes of blackberries, overripe mulberries and spices and the resulting wines benefit from oak contact from which they develop rich, complex aromas and a balanced depth.”

 

Since 2007, Bulgaria has secured 54 PDO accreditations for its wines. Other grapes of note include the reds Rubin, Melnik, Gamza and Evmolpia and whites Sandanski, Mishet, Korkoko.

 

Neil says: “We are in a modern, dynamic era for Bulgarian wine with the focus on quality above quantity and creating exceptional wines through blending the existing array of exciting native grape varieties. It is a world away from the 1980s approach of entry-level international grape varieties and a reliance on Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot in particular.”

 

 

Hungary for innovation and rediscovery 

 

Hungary is world renowned for the production of Hungarian Tokaj/Tokaji PDO, a wine deemed valuable enough to be given the world’s first vineyard classification in 1700. Recent years have seen encouraging developments and a determination to move from high yields to pursuing wines of high quality and re-discovering ancient, indigenous grapes that were almost lost.

 

Neil says: “Hungary has long had a strong international following for its white wines, and in particular the outstanding wines of Tokaji, but with over 35% of its vines now producing red wines and a renewed enthusiasm for innovation and rediscovery, particularly of historical varieties and regional specific sites, the future is extremely exciting.”

 

Kadarka was once Hungary’s most famous red grape but its susceptibility to disease and late ripening issues led to it being neglected during the communist era. These days the grapes are grown on the Great Plain of Szekszárd where passionate winemakers are producing excellent reds with plenty of acidity, ripe fruit flavours and spicy after notes.

 

Romania: a divine connection to wine

 

Wine production in Romania dates back to when the Greeks first brought grapevines to the country between 600-500 BC. According to legend, Banat in Romania was the birthplace of Bacchus, giving the region a divine connection to viticulture. It is now a significant producer of wine and sits in the top ten wine producing countries, responsible for 1.9% of the world’s total wine and with volumes up more than 20% in 2022².

 

Romania has retained a significant presence of its indigenous white grapes. Feteascǎ Albà, the original grape produces dry, aromatic wines and thanks to its naturally high sugar content it also produces quality sweet wines. Romania’s Royal Maiden – Feteascǎ Regalä is known for producing delicate, elegant notes and also complex off-dry wines.

 

Romanian Cadarcǎ was once considered to be one of the best red wines in the Austro-Hungarian empire. It is a traditional grape variety of the Miniş-Măderat vineyards where it is made by adding raisins to the fresh wine resulting in a complex, robust wine full of velvety texture but at times slightly acidic.

 

Neil adds: “Over the past 25 years, the country’s wine industry has been transformed and there has been a surge in quality both at the entry level, driven by the huge success of forward thinking, internationally minded producers such as Recas Cramele, and at the more premium end, with terroir specific grape varieties such as Fetească Regală, Fetească Neagră and Negru de Drăgășani.”

 

The future is bright

 

Neil concludes, “The future of wines from Bulgaria, Hungary, and Romania is bright as these countries continue to rediscover and refine their unique varietals, blending tradition with modern winemaking techniques to deliver wines of increasingly impressive quality. Alongside a growing willingness from the UK consumer to be more adventurous and younger drinkers, in particular, actively seeking out new and different wines, these regions are set to become one the next great wine destinations.”

 

For more information about the EU’s ‘More Than Only Food and Drink’ campaign visit enjoy-its-from-europe.campaign.europa.eu/united-kingdom/en.