Book review: Small Pleasures by Ryan Riley

Ryan Riley’s latest book is a line of defence when taking care of yourself is pushed to the bottom of the to-do list.

The chef is the founder of Life Kitchen, a not-for-profit cookery school for people whose taste has been affected by Covid or by cancer or cancer treatment.

“My focus has been to develop exciting, easy-to-create dishes for when we feel run down, lethargic or blue,” Riley says in the introduction, discussing how his mother’s death and the coronavirus pandemic took a heavy toll on his mental health. “This new cook book is the evolution of everything I’ve learned since 2018 about flavour, people living with illness and so much more.”

Divided into three culinary stages of recovery – Comfort, Restoration and Pleasure – Riley structures his book in accordance to one’s energy levels. Comfort offers simple yet flavourful recipes, such as his Parmesan orzotto with lemon porcini – all the cosiness of a risotto without the constant stirring – while tahini-drizzled caramel bananas transforms a simple dessert into an elaborate, mood-lifting treat.

The Restoration chapter uses tangy, citrusy, energy-boosting ingredients to reawaken the palate and nourish the soul. A green herb salsa is just as versatile as it is vibrant, and the gochujang, ginger and avocado toast is a refreshing glow-up for the California breakfast classic. Even chicken noodle soup gets a revamp, using white miso, marjoram leaves, dumplings and dried egg noodles for an Asian twist.

Pleasure is an ode to indulgence and self-love. Riley focuses on extravagance, excess and bold flavours, such as kimchi and Cheddar quesadillas, pomegranate chilli-glazed halloumi, a savoury stack of sauerkraut pancakes with harissa “for a microbiome boost”, and a coconut and pandan chia pudding.

Small Pleasures is a feel-good read for any food lover and a gentle guide back to normality, where Riley asks the reader to remember one thing: “You deserve it”.

Small Pleasures: Joyful Recipes for Difficult Times by Ryan Riley Bloomsbury Publishing (£22)