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Paul Ainsworth shares his favourite foods in his first cookbook

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The Mariners chef offers up a range of recipes for anything from roast turbot to what to serve with custard.

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It’s always exciting when a top UK chef publishes their debut cookbook – none more so than Paul Ainsworth. With a portfolio of Cornwall-based restaurants under his belt and 18 years at the stove, Ainsworth has poured his experience into For the Love of Food.

 

It’s a jam-packed tome, with just about every recipe you could ever want for a gastropub or classic restaurant, clearly picked and personalised with expertise. From snacks to curries to roasts, it reads like a menu at a lovely lunch that would get anyone excited. Ainsworth has given it an extra twist by focusing on his favourite foods. Just look at the section titles and you’ll see what I mean: the book starts with ‘Beach Breakfast & Brunch’, takes a gander through ‘For the Love of Sandwiches’ and ‘Pasta Favourites’, and lands on ‘…& Custard’. The chef delights in showing variety through focus.

 

Of course, as Ainsworth’s restaurant empire is set by the coast, fish plays a pivotal role. There’s an entire chapter dedicated to ‘From the Sea’, though seafood in the form of prawn cocktails and tuna tartare crops up in other chapters. Ainsworth’s version of a traditional roast dinner uses turbot as its centrepiece instead of a cut of meat, and which, he says, “encapsulates everything that [he] love[s] about sitting down with friends and family.”

Ainsworth’s pub in Rock – which he opened in 2019 – provides much of the inspiration for the pub classics in the book. ‘The Mariner’s’ appears before many of the recipe titles, such as the fish and chips, prawn cocktail and a Ploughman’s. These recipes are simple enough for a home cook to comprehend, but for chefs they provide an insight into how this restaurateur interprets the dishes, such as choosing sparkling water as the base for his fish batter or revealing his favourite cheeses (Davidstow 24-month Crackler for Cheddar, Colston Bassett for Stilton).

 

The shining star of the book has to be ‘Toad in the Hole Ainsworth-Style’, for which he took inspiration from the traditional French sweet pastry galette des rois. Instead of frangipane there are sausages and stuffing; all-butter puff pastry takes the place of the Yorkshire pudding batter; and he creates a chimney out of tin foil to ensure gravy gets to the centre.

 

To top it all off, Gordon Ramsay has provided a foreword and chefs such as Raymond Blanc, Angela Harnett and Rick Stein have given glowing reviews. Truly, For the Love of Food represents a chef at the top of his game.

 

For the Love of Food by Paul Ainsworth (£26, Pavilion Books). Photography: Issy Croker

 

Cook beach barbecue mackerel bruschetta from the book here

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