Pathways: Lucy Townsend, owner, Greyhound on the Test

The owner of the Greyhound on the Test, catering firm Wilds, the Hoxton Bakehouse and Wine Utopia has gathered advice from some of the best in the industry. She talks to Lisa Jenkins

Did you study a hospitality-related course at school, college or university?

Yes, I went to two colleges – the first was a bus ride from my home in Denbigh in North Wales and I then received a scholarship to Blackpool and the Fylde College, a residential college, to train as a commis chef.

What was your first job?

It was at the Chester Grosvenor as a chef de partie in pastry. I worked there for two years and then I moved to London.

What initially attracted you to working in hospitality?

I believe the death of my Mum when I was 15 caused me to completely screw up my GCSEs. My father insisted I take them again and catering college provided the opportunity for me to do that and complete the pastry chef qualification as further education simultaneously. Also, hospitality was sociable, which I loved, and I wanted to travel – hospitality jobs are available globally and you can work to fund your travels.

Who was your first mentor in hospitality?

Roger Pizey, who is currently the executive pastry chef for Fortnum & Mason, but when I met him he was the chef pâtissière for Marco Pierre White’s restaurants. He looked after me and guided me in what was then a male-dominated section of hospitality. I was a naive 21-year-old from Wales who was new to London and working with legends in their own right, which was quite daunting.

I still speak to Roger a lot as he loves to fish, like so many chefs, and he comes to our fishing beat at the Greyhound on Test, which is lovely for both of us.

How did you decide on your career direction?

Working for Marco led me into restaurant work rather than big hotels. It was an incredible experience, and I met some amazing chefs, who now have their own successful businesses.

Could you talk me through the steps in your career in hospitality?

After the Chester Grosvenor I worked for Marco as a chef de partie in pastry. I moved to his Criterion restaurant for the opening and then to Quo Vadis. My next move was to Le Gavroche as second pastry chef for a year, then I decided to return to the Criterion before joining Hotel du Vin in Winchester and working in many of the hotels in the chain for Robin Hutson.

After five years I went to Australia to work for the Merivale Group as head pastry chef, looking after a number of their sites. I then returned to the UK and set up businesses with various partners, including the Peat Spade Inn in Longstock, Stockbridge; the Anchor Inn in Lower Froyle, Alton; the Queens Arms in East Garston, Hungerford; the Kings Arms in Lockerley, Romsey; and the Greyhound on the Test in Stockbridge.

What are the biggest challenges you've faced working in hospitality?

There have been many over the years – recessions, staffing issues, etc – but the Covid-19 pandemic was by far the one that sticks in my mind the most.

Is there anything you wish you had done differently?

I have learned about the industry a lot along the way and I’m sure there’s lots of examples of regrets I might give at 2am after a busy service, but nothing major to speak of.

What advice would you give to someone starting out in the industry?

Get as much experience as you can, surround yourself with a good team and work for some great people. The first few years are always more about learning than earning, so you have to be ready to work hard and put in the hours. But hard work and a passion for the industry will always pay off.

What are your career goals?

To concentrate more on our events business, which we’ve not yet had the opportunity to fully develop – and to spend a bit more time doing the fun stuff and less time sitting in front of my computer.

Who inspires you in the industry?

Robin Hutson. He has always inspired me since I started working for him at a young age. He is hospitality through and through and has been there for me through good times and bad. He always picks up the phone if I’ve ever needed help.