Fifty not out for Campbell Brothers’ master butcher Jim Doherty

When looking back to 50 years ago, things were a lot different: Harold Wilson was prime minister, Don Revie was the England men’s football team manager and ABBA won Eurovision with ‘Waterloo’. But something that has not changed is Jim Doherty, with his butchery apron and rolled-up sleeves – although, he does look a little different these days!

Now Jim, Campbell Brother’s master butcher, has just celebrated his 50th work anniversary – an incredible achievement.

Jim started his career back in the 1970s at the age of just 12 in a small high street butcher’s shop. Since then he has worked his way up, perfecting his trade along the way to become the highly skilled, knowledgeable veteran of butchery he is known as today.

But things are very different now to how they were at the start of Jim’s career. People’s attitudes towards meat have dramatically changed and butchery is a craft that fewer and fewer people are taking up. We sat down with Jim for a spot of reminiscing and horizon scanning to find out more about the current condition of the meat market, how things have changed over his long career, and to find out how we can inspire the next generation of young butchers.

How did you get into butchery?

“In the Midlands, where I lived, it was what everyone wanted to do. Kids would finish school and walk down the road to the butcher’s for their part-time job to earn some pocket money. And I was no different. At the age of 12, in those days, of course there were not as many work restrictions. I would finish school and within half an hour be behind the counter at the local butcher’s shop. Then, as time went on, and I started to learn the skills required, I realised not only did I enjoy what I was doing, but I wasn’t half bad. From then I knew it was the career for me.”

What have been the biggest changes you’ve seen over your career?

“One big difference is how much fat consumers want on their meat. When I first started, no one was bothered by the amount of fat, but nowadays, due to people being more health-conscious, everyone wants their cuts of meat to be lean.

“The skill of breaking down carcasses has also faded away as technology does most of the job these days, and big cuts such as a leg of lamb now come prepared. Although this may be making things simpler, it’s a shame to see such traditional butchering skills being left in the past.”

Will meat still be popular with consumers during the years ahead?

“Despite the rise in popularity of vegetarian and vegan diets, meat will always be popular with consumers. Firstly, because of the many various dishes that include meat, and secondly, because of its high nutritional value, being rich in protein and containing many important vitamins.

“In the current climate, price is the main consideration but, looking to the future, consumers’ attentions will be focused on the nutritional value, transparency about where the meat comes from and what impact it has on the environment when choosing meat. Always look for certified credentials such as the Red Tractor and BRCS-certified among many others, as this shows proper practices are being carried out.”

How can the next generation of butchers be inspired?

“Butchery is sadly a profession on the decline – the buzz that was there when I first started has greatly diminished. However, I believe it’s not too late to do something about this. If we want to encourage youngsters into the trade, we need to ensure it’s a front of mind option when it comes to career decision-making. There are some fantastic courses available, such as the Meat Education Programme, which equips trainees with everything they need to be a skilled and successful butcher. The real challenge is encouraging people to sign up in the first place!

“I think the profession needs to focus on putting itself in the shop window, speaking at schools and colleges to encourage the next generation, because it really is a great job that you’ll enjoy whether it’s year one or year 50.”

To find out more about more about Campbell Brothers and their fresh meat offering, visit www.campbellbrothers.co.uk