Drinks doctor: What new-style ciders can I serve?

With the terroir of English orchards, it’s time to take a second look at the new wave of fruit-forward ciders, says Gordy McIntyre

 

 

 

Don’t let this monsoon weather fool you – we are in peak of summer, which in this country usually means wonderful cider season. And there is certainly a British cider revolution happening right now.

 

 

 

Rid yourself of the old connotations when it comes to cider, as while there’s nothing wrong with our traditional ciders, it’s time to champion one of the country’s gems.

 

 

 

I would love to introduce you to one of the new breed orchardists we have the fortune to work with, the wonderful Little Pomona. It originates in Thornbury, North Herefordshire, and has 120 trees showcasing four classic cider apple varieties, but not as we know them. Working with the best produce and using natural methods, Little Pomona has created ciders and perries which showcase the best seasonal produce from these very shores magnificently.

 

 

 

Natural, biodynamic and small batch are all terms we are more than familiar with in the wine world, and while the mighty grape has long been universally celebrated, maybe it’s the time to shine a spotlight on apples and pears? Napoleon himself allegedly proclaimed cider the Champagne of England – possibly a slight dig – but if this comment remotely inspired Little Pomona to create its Brut Rosé, then there is definitely truth in that statement. The cider has a vivid orange-red colour from hand-picked damsons grown on gnarled, old trees in a nearby hilltop orchard. It is sent to bottle to ferment and after 12 months is disgorged by hand in true Champagne technique.

 

 

 

Cider production resembles wine more than beer, in the time needed to grow a productive orchard and to produce the end product. The current trend of 70cl bottled cider produced at lower ABV follows the pet nat (petillant naturel) style, where the liquid is bottled while still fermenting and also benefits from being gluten-free.

 

 

 

“Oh, I drank too much cheap cider in my teens”, is the common response when I try to introduce a friend or guest to this wonderful drink, but this grimace originates from the fact that almost all of the ciders which conjure up this reaction are merely made from concentrate and, dare I say it, are completely synthetic in taste. There is an increasing number of new and innovative cider producers out there using natural methods and well-harvested fruits, and blending harmonious flavour combinations.

 

 

 

So make space in those fridges and clear a considerable gap on those wine shelves – now is the time to take cider seriously.

 

 

 

Seasonal food and drink pairing: Reserve Sauvignon Blanc and seafood

 

 

 

The premium ‘Wairau’ Reserve Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough pioneer Saint Clair is an intensely fragrant wine, with aromas of tropical blackcurrant bud and passion fruit. Like all great Sauvignon Blancs, it is the perfect partner for seafood, whether freshly shucked oysters or mussels, seared scallops, salmon or pan-fried fish.

 

 

 

Do you have a question for one of the Drinks Doctors? Send your query to drinks@thecaterer.com

 

 

 

Sponsored by Saint Clair Family Estate