Suzie Isaacs joined the Feathers hotel in Ledbury, Herefordshire, more than 22 years ago, eschewing a university place to work with the business. She was appointed head chef in 2009 and has overseen a culture change since new owners came on-board two years ago and invested £350,000 in a major renovation. Janet Harmer speaks to her
Suzie Isaacs joined the Feathers hotel in Ledbury, Herefordshire, more than 22 years ago, eschewing a university place to work with the business. She was appointed head chef in 2009 and has overseen a culture change since new owners came on-board two years ago and invested £350,000 in a major renovation. Janet Harmer speaks to her
What first inspired you to join the Feathers?
My late mum was my early inspiration because I loved cooking with her. When I left school with no idea what I wanted to do, I took a job as a commis chef at the hotel, which had a great reputation. I just fell into the role.
I started working under a truly inspirational head chef, the late John Capaldi. He was a legend and my rock, and without his guidance I would certainly not be where I am today. I still use some of his recipes.
Why have you stayed with the hotel for so long?
That’s easy. The Feathers is a very special place and I love the people – it’s like being part of one big family. Some of the staff have been here longer than me, so I have absolutely no desire to go anywhere else.
The Feathers was bought by the Coaching Inn Group just over two years ago, having previously been owned by the Elliston family for 40 years. What changes have since taken place?
The most exciting change was the reopening of an old front door, which was blocked up more than 100 years ago. It now gives access to the former restaurant, which has been transformed into a vibrant new walk-in coffee shop. The space retains a lot of the original features of the 400-year-old building and is linked to a new eatery and refurbished bar.
Instead of serving meals at the traditional times, we are now open from 7am until 9.30pm, so if you should feel like a steak with all the trimmings in the late afternoon, it’s now available. Serving all day has only helped me be even more organised, which I never thought was possible!
How many chefs are there in the brigade?
I have six chefs. I still need another one to join the team because, with all we do, including breakfast, another pair of hands would be fantastic.
Recruiting in the town is a challenge because the nearest catering college is 15 miles away in Hereford, which is a city with more options for young people entering the industry.
How would you sum up your management style?
As well as running the kitchen and being the boss, I take the time to get to know all my team members and enjoy a joke with them. We are a small brigade who work happily together like a family. When it’s really busy we all dance around the kitchen in perfect harmony.
How have you seen customers’ tastes change over the past 22 years?
While the traditional dishes are as popular as ever, people’s tastes are evolving along with their lifestyles and diets, so we have to go on being adaptable. I enjoy it because it allows me to be inventive when trying out new dishes and writing my menus.