Michelin 2024 ceremony sparks star speculation in Manchester

The Michelin Guide Great Britain and Ireland’s decision to host its 2024 ceremony in Manchester has created a buzz that the city may be awarded some long-awaited stars.

The red book will announce the recipients of new stars, green stars, and special awards on 5 February at the Midland hotel, which is home to restaurant Adam Reid at the French.

It marks a turnaround for the guide, which for years faced criticism that it had overlooked Manchester’s dining scene.

Noma-trained chef Simon Martin ended the city’s 40-year wait for a Michelin star in 2019, with the guide praising his “stylish, modern” restaurant Mana.

The same year, Simon Shaw, who runs tapas restaurant El Gato Negro in the city centre, told The Caterer it was a “crime” Manchester had missed out on stars in recent years.

A total of 15 Manchester restaurants are currently recommended in the Michelin Guide Great Britain and Ireland. El Gato Negro and eastern European-inspired the Spärrows are the only two sites to hold Bib Gourmands, while Stockport’s Where the Light Gets In holds a Green Star for sustainability.

Simon Wood, chef owner at the Wood Manchester restaurant, said the Michelin ceremony was “a coup for the city”.

“Manchester’s bouncing at the moment,” he told The Caterer. “Michelin is the top of the tree and to have that ceremony in Manchester is something else.

“It has felt like [Michelin] were not interested in us for a little while. I think a few people will say that we’ve been overlooked, sometimes fairly harshly, but it’s exciting.”

Wood said he felt Adam Reid at the French was “massively overdue” for a star. Reid took over the Midland hotel dining room following the departure of Simon Rogan in 2016 and it has held four AA rosettes since 2018.

“His cookery’s outstanding, he’s a great chef and got a fantastic team,” said Wood.

“I think that would be a dream come true for Adam and I fully hope that he gets [a star].

“You look at some of the one-star restaurants that have two or three rosettes and they’re not comparable.”

Siobhan Thompson, event manager for the Northern Restaurant and Bar show, said Michelin heading to Manchester was “not only a testament to the thriving culinary scene but also a great acknowledgment of northern hospitality”.

She also backed Reid, as well as the Higher Ground and Climat restaurants, as deserving recognition.

Other industry figures contacted by The Caterer tipped Mana as being in line for a second star and noted Where the Light Gets In was already on the guide’s radar with its green star.

“It’s fair to say Manchester is the toughest culinary nut to crack in the country,” said Wood. “To get it right here on a consistent basis is phenomenally difficult.”

While Michelin can be hard to predict, Wood said the guide had already surprised chefs by taking the awards to the city.

“One thing everyone would say is they weren’t expecting it,” he added.