Just eight months after joining the Atlantic Hotel in Jersey, chef Will Holland is already making waves, writes Katherine Price
Shortly after announcing his departure from Coast in Saundersfoot, Pembrokeshire, last year, the news broke that chef Will Holland would be uprooting to Jersey.
"I loved Coast. It was a very personal thing to me, but it had its limitations," says Holland, who had launched the restaurant in 2014 as opening head chef, along with owners Neil and Zoe Kedward. Seeking a new challenge, he put himself forward for the executive chef role at the 50-bedroom, four-red-AA-star Atlantic hotel, in the Burke family for 48 years and now overseen by Treena and Patrick Burke.
The previous executive chef of the Atlantic's Ocean restaurant Mark Jordan held a Michelin star for 10 of the 13 years he was there; Holland admits those are "big shoes to fill", but he is keen to put his own stamp on things.
Holland secured his own first Michelin star before the age of 30 at La Bécasse in Ludlow, Shropshire, and was awarded AA Restaurant of the Year in Wales 2015/16 for Coast. He says he is happy the Atlantic had its accolades removed following Jordan's departure. "I don't want to come in and retain something off the back of someone else's hard work," he says. "We've got everything to play for."
Although both menus focus heavily on Jersey produce, he aims to expose diners to new food and wines and unexpected flavour combinations in the Tasting Room.
The menu also features a retired Jersey dairy cow tartare of classically garnished beef fillet, bone marrow and a smoked egg yolk.
âObviously the Jersey dairy industry is massive, but what happens with the cows once theyâve finished milking? Usually not a lot, but actually the meat is amazing,â says Holland. âTheyâve worked all their lives, so the meat can be slightly tougher, but itâs also a fuller flavour and the fat is really creamy. The flavour lends itself to being a tartare, and we use the fillet, so itâs as tender a cut as it can be.â
âFive minutes after calling he was at the back door with two hot pork pies heâd made that morning,â laughs Holland. The quality of suppliers â" including Fin and Feather (seafood and game) in St Helier, Faulkner Fisheries in St Ouen, and Fungi Delecti in Trinity â" means the kitchen can primarily source locally. Holland hastens to add that the quality and consistency must be right, though â" he has no qualms about using Tahitian vanilla or Sicilian lemons.
Low-season service could be âa couple of tablesâ, but during high season with a full hotel, a busy dinner service, extra covers on the terrace and 100-cover events, he estimates they could end up doing 300 covers in a day.
âThereâs a lot to keep me busy here,â he adds. âI want to develop the breakfast buffet. Iâd love to have a chef presence in the dining room, maybe making omelettes or cutting fruitâ¦â