Drinks doctor: What’s the hype around Greek wine?

The number of winemakers in Greece has boomed in recent years, offering up crisp whites and rosés that can take a sunny spot on your list, says Steve Daniel, head of buying at Hallgarten & Novum Wines

Do you have any Greek wines on your wine list? I hope so. Greece is one of the oldest wine producers on the planet, while also being the newest and most modern wine industry in Europe – quite a juxtaposition, and both statements are true.

In the early 1990s there were only around 40 wineries operating across the country. Today there are over 1,300. This huge growth in the past 30 years has resulted in hundreds of brand spanking new wineries with state-of-the-art equipment.

The ingredients for winemaking are now right in Greece, and so are the style of the wines. We have found that guests are looking for styles of white wine that are precise, crisp and mineral. For me, Greece is the most reliable source of this style of wine in Europe, perfectly suited for modern dishes, served in a variety of cuisines. For one of the southern outposts of Europe this might seem strange, but the local grapes have been grown in Greece for centuries and are fully attuned to their surroundings. They cope with heat and water stress and retain acidity.

Stylistically speaking, most Greek whites fit firmly in the crisp and mineral section. Assyrtiko from Santorini or the mainland will appeal to Chablis drinkers – and offer far better value for money. Malagousia will appeal to Albariño or Viognier drinkers. Again, it offers great perfume but with a better texture, acidity and a salty mineral kiss. Kidonitsa is like an exotic Margarita-infused Sauvignon Blanc, with added layers of mountain herbs.

Ten years ago, Greek rosé was not that exciting, as it was fairly heavy and not in tune with today’s tastes. But this is a young industry, with great grapes, all the modern winemaking technology and the know-how to adapt very quickly, and now Greece is producing some of the world’s best and most exciting rosés. They are light and fragrant but with a little more texture than their Provençal counterparts, making them even more food-friendly.

Reds will always play a smaller role in the country, as over 70% of the vineyards are planted to white varieties. However, major work in the vineyards has resulted in better quality fruit, with an abundance of ancient varieties discovered and resurrected each year.

Xinomavro is a brilliant shoo-in for an Italian Nebbiolo – think Barolo, but with more fruit concentration and exoticism and at a fraction of the price. Agiorgitiko is malleable grape that can become a chilled, easy-drinking Beaujolais alternative or can take the place of an impressive Super Tuscan.

With many establishments looking to embrace the modern Greek food trend, now is the time to dive in and add Greek wines to your wine list.

Seasonal food and drink pairing: Seafood and Reserve Sauvignon Blanc

The premium ‘Wairau’ Reserve Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough pioneer Saint Clair is an intensely fragrant wine, with aromas of tropical blackcurrant bud and passion fruit. Like all great Sauvignon Blancs, it is the perfect partner for seafood, whether freshly shucked oysters or mussels, seared scallops, salmon or pan-fried fish.

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