Book review: The Tinned Tomatoes Cookbook by Samuel Goldsmith

Whether you’re always reaching for it or shun in favour of fresh, the power of the tinned tomato is undeniable.

It’s a cupboard staple we’re all familiar with. From basic home cooks to top chefs, it’s used in an infinite number of ways – and Samuel Goldsmith has collected some of the best in a handy guide.

“They’re like a reliable friend that you know will be there exactly when you need them,” he writes in the introduction to the book. And for Goldsmith, its important to give credit to the tins you can pick up, from the standard chopped tomatoes to “the emperor”, San Marzano.

If you have a conception that a book dedicated to one ingredient would produce a one-note collection, think again – you can find just about any type of recipe you’re looking for, from feasts to snacks. Inspiration spans the globe, such as with chicken paprikash, stuffed cabbage leaves and chana masala, or in paying homage to lesser-known dishes, such as Moroccan zaalouk, a simple, hearty side dish, along with sauces such as all’amatriciana and pesto alla Trapanese. Goldsmith’s family also have a say, with recipes for nan’s beef and dad’s healthier butter chicken.

One of the stand-out recipes is the spinach and tomato strata, much like a savoury, tomato-y bread and butter pudding, alongside a picture that looks unbelievably tempting. Goldsmith’s years of developing recipes clearly comes in handy. At the end of the book there’s an element more cookbooks could do with – a cook’s index, where you can search for the type of meal you want, be it something that cooks in 30 minutes or less, something to batch cook or a dish that suits dietary requirement.

Perhaps the only quibble from a chef’s perspective is that the recipes are on the easier side, with nothing requiring a huge amount of skill, nor reinventing the wheel. But there’s a charm to it and, flicking through its pages on a cold winter’s day, it gives exactly the warming vibes we’re all craving.

The Tinned Tomatoes Cookbook by Samuel Goldsmith (Murdoch Books, £18.99)