Book review: Rib Ticklers & Choux-Ins by Glynn Purnell

Kyle Books, £19.99

 

Following on from his successful debut cookbook, Cracking Yolks & Pig Tails, it comes as no surprise that Glynn Purnell's second book would have an equally playful title. And those entertained by this Michelin-starred chef's food, style and way with words will not be disappointed with his latest tome.

 

Whereas his first book focused on the fine-dining fayre of his one-Michelin-starred Purnell's, Rib Ticklers & Choux-ins offers a selection of recipes from his Purnell's Bistro in Birmingham.

 

Fun is key in this book. It begins with some of Purnell's bistro rules, including: "No crying or yawning, we are neither your mother nor your bed" and "Drunkeness is prohibited, please don't act like an amateur".

 

Although the book is aimed at the home cook, even the most competent chef will find some of the 110 recipes a little challenging. Each chapter is colourfully narrated with Purnell's tales of working in the industry, alongside his memories of food as a child.

 

Breakfast and brunch recipes include egg yolk and salmon tartlets, oeufs cocotte and tartare of asparagus and fennel cloud and, for the more adventurous, Balearic prawns with chilli butter and tom yum soup. In a chapter entitled ‘Take-away, take time, nibbles, snacks and bites', the featured quick dishes offer a distinct nod to Asian cuisine. With the likes of grilled Szechuan-style chicken skewers and duck spring rolls, there's no need to order in again.

 

For fish lovers, there are roast monkfish tails with buttered lettuce and frozen apple, and a refreshing dish of scallops with lime, wasabi crumble and watercress. Or how about the more hearty Malaysian fish curry?

 

To round it off, a scorched lemon and vanilla margarita is one of the additions from the chef’s cocktail menu.

 

By Katherine Alano

 

If you like this, you may enjoy these

• Sex & Drugs & Sausage Rolls Garrett Graham
• Social Suppers Jason Atherton
• Tom’s Table: My Favourite Everyday Recipes Tom Kerridge

 

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