Within the first four paragraphs of Ottolenghi's Simple, the chef tackles the fact that for many the name of this book will appear to be an oxymoron.
But he insists there is not one recipe among the 130 listed that he feels sheepish about, arguing that "simple" means different things to different people, before acknowledging that, being Ottolenghi, "a single sprig of parsley was never, really, going to cut the mustard".
Creating an acronym, Ottolenghiâs definitions are: âShort on timeâ, â10 Ingredients or lessâ, âMake aheadâ, âPantryâ, âLazyâ and âEasier than you thinkâ. Each recipe lists the definitions that apply.
The recipes are distinctly Ottolenghi, with an abundance of beautiful plates of vegetables topped with herbs and yogurt, stuffed courgettes, many incarnations of roasted aubergine and lots of preserved lemons and sumac.
While vegetables, as expected, take centre stage, the meat and fish chapters are equally inspiring, featuring lamb siniyah â" a Middle Eastern shepherdâs pie with tahini crust; slow-cooked chicken with a crisp corn crust; and Bridget Jonesâs pan-fried salmon with pine nut salsa â" as referenced on-screen by actor Patrick Dempsey in the film franchiseâs latest outing.
While instantly recognisable as an Ottolenghi cookbook, Simple is distinctly different from the cheffy techniques and forensic attention to detail seen in Nopi. Itâs an easing into the chefâs food for the home cook and the recipes within its 308 pages appear destined for a family feast or dinner party.
That said, this is Ottolenghiâs Simple, not Deliaâs How To Cook and it should not be dismissed as just for the home chef. The flavour combinations and visual appeal that have made him a box-office hit for more than a decade pour out of every page and are a lesson for anyone aspiring to entice diners or readers.
Ottolenghi Simple by Yotam Ottolenghi with Tara Wigley and Esme Howarth
(Ebury Press, £25)
⢠Make slow-cooked chicken with a crisp corn crust from the book here