Book review: ‘New French Table' by Emily and Giselle Roux

Emily and Giselle are not names you might immediately associate with a Roux cookbook, but if you have any doubts about their qualifications for writing it, Michel Roux Jr's daughter and wife will dispel them immediately.

New French Table offers contemporary interpretations of classic French recipes, particularly the southern French food that Giselle grew up with, which is more Mediterranean in style with a focus on fish, vegetables and olive oil. Emily brings new dishes, ingredients and the techniques and experience of a professional chef to the table.

The recipes are fresher and lighter than you might expect â€" although a few comforting classics are included, such as escargots à la Bourguignonne, smothered in butter and garlic, beignets aux pommes and Oreo churros with (dairy-free) coconut and vanilla chantilly crème.

The book also offers much in the way of reinterpreting classic French techniques and dishes for modern food trends (quinoa salad with roasted squash, rocket and ginger), for changing diets (dairy-free avocado mousse) and for the waste awareness of the modern audience (radish-top soup).

It is separated into categories, including soups, salads, bread, today’s trends, international influences and a ‘professional kitchen’ section, with recipes including duck breast with asparagus and coffee, pan-seared pollock with avocado and citrus dressing, and crispy rolled pig’s head with red cabbage salad.

Giselle says they wrote the book partly because Michel kept stealing her recipes. But now it’s their turn, and the Roux women are ensuring the culinary world knows the female side of the family is a force to be reckoned with.

If you like this, you may enjoy these

The Essence of French Cooking by Michel Roux

French Provincial Cooking by Elizabeth David

Made at Home: The Food I Cook for the People I Love by Giorgio Locatelli