How Karol Ploch won the Roux Scholarship in its 40th year

18 April 2024 by

In the 40th year of the Roux Scholarship, Karol Ploch took the title in a creative brief that was a tribute to chef and honourary president Thomas Keller

"It's now or never," Karol Ploch thought as he submitted his entry for the 2024 Roux Scholarship. Three months later, the 28-year-old joined a roll-call of the leading lights of the hospitality industry as the competition's 40th scholar. Ploch, a sous chef at Kerridge's Bar & Grill at the Corinthia London in Whitehall, was praised by the judges for the flavour of his dish, his precise cooking techniques and his manner of working.

This year the judges were led by honorary president Thomas Keller, chef patron of the three-Michelin-starred French Laundry in California and Per Se in New York. Keller, the first and only American-born chef to hold multiple three-star ratings from the Michelin Guide, is known for meticulous standards and for changing his menus daily to showcase only the finest produce.

As the finalists gathered on Monday 8 April, Keller told them: "We cook to nurture people, to make people happy. I want you to take that thought in your preparation today. You are cooking to nurture us and to make us happy."

Ploch says he found being judged by Keller both inspiring and daunting: "He's one of the greatest chefs ever, so cooking for him was a great privilege. It was also very stressful, but he was very nice and supportive. He knew we were under a lot of pressure and he tried to build us up."

As well as welcoming one of the world's most successful and admired chefs to the judging panel, the 2024 competition was held at the Waterside Inn for the first time. The Bray restaurant was opened by the scholarship's co-founders, Michel Sr and Albert Roux, in 1972, and the contest, which is celebrating its 40th year, is now run by their sons, Alain and Michel Roux.

"It's a landmark year," Alain told The Caterer as the judges assembled ahead of the final. "It's been 25 years since myself and my cousin joined the judging panel and it's a celebration of 40 years of the Roux Scholarship. This year the competition is being held in my dad's house – the briefing room was his living room, and the cookery school is in his kitchen. For me it's very emotional."

Once the 2024 finalists arrived, they received a briefing in the newly completed Michel Roux Library, which holds more than 3,000 cookery books, many from his personal collection. With their challenge set, they moved to the Alain Roux Cookery School, taking a station in what had once been Michel Sr's personal kitchen.

Addressing the competition's six finalists, who had been selected first from paper entries and then whittled down through two regional heats, Michel set out a challenge inspired by the philosophy of Keller. The chefs were asked to serve poached rainbow trout with Carlingford oysters, with the only further guidance being that the trout needed to be served warm with a sauce and garnish. The finalists were then taken to explore a display of close to 100 ingredients for their use and were encouraged to bring their individual flair to their dish in one of the most open challenges the competition has ever set.

Alain explains: "We wanted to set a challenge that represented chef Thomas Keller. There are not many chefs like him and that's why he's at the top of his game. I admire how he thinks – he's the kind of chef who does not want to be known for a handful of dishes, he likes change.

"We took the position of putting so many ingredients in the basket to give the chefs the opportunity to bring their vision and their style of cooking. This is what we want the Roux Scholarship to do. To give them complete freedom to decide on the spot [what to cook] while looking at the ingredients. We took them to see them, to touch them and smell them."

The brief surprised Ploch, who had been expecting a classic French meat dish, but he embraced the challenge.

"We had a lot of flexibility which was surprising," he explains. "There were amazing ingredients on the table for us to use, like artichokes, morels, chanterelles, asparagus – you could have gone in many directions. My approach was to pursue simplicity, to show the flavour of the trout and not overwhelm it with any heavy garnishes."

After being given 45 minutes to devise a recipe and three hours for cooking, Ploch served the judges rainbow trout poached in an oyster sauce, turned potatoes glazed in a chicken reduction, trout ballotine with leeks and chanterelles as well as blanched asparagus. An additional oyster sauce on the side was finished with makrut lime, butter and thyme.

He says: "I tried to keep it simple. I knew Thomas Keller likes a simple style and very developed flavours, so that was the idea for me. The only worry was if I was going to execute it properly. It's an unfamiliar kitchen so that does slow you down, but my commis Ben [Martin, of the Waterside Inn] was great."

Some four hours later Keller read out Ploch's name, revealing him as the competition's 40th scholar during a ceremony held at Coworth Park in Berkshire.

Ploch up your courage

Ploch, who won on his first time of entering the competition, says: "It's hard to believe still. It's overwhelming. When you look at the previous Roux Scholars, they've all done amazing things. It's a massive step up for me in my career and I'm just going to follow that. It's a little daunting."

Keller says the judges considered the temperature, texture and taste of the dishes served as well as the way the chefs worked and communicated with their commis chefs to choose the winner. Fellow judge Clare Smyth, chef patron of the three-Michelin-starred Core in Notting Hill, says: "It was a tough competition – very, very close. I think there were really three in the running that really impressed us in different ways.

"We wanted to find someone who is an all-rounder and that's what won it. We wanted a really well-executed dish, but we also looked at how they work in the kitchen, their character, the relationship with their commis. Karol stood out because he had all of that. Quite simply, he ticked all the boxes."

Smyth admits the open nature of the brief proved a surprise for some of the finalists. "I think it was great. It's the first time it's happened, so was a bit of a shock and I think [they] played it a bit safe. The ingredients were phenomenal, it was a chef's larder and they had the freedom. The dishes were very nicely executed with beautiful ingredients, but if this continues, next time I want to see someone really go for it."

Ploch is the first Roux Scholar to hail from Tom Kerridge's restaurant group, having joined the team three years ago.

"I'm absolutely so proud and full of admiration for Karol," says Kerridge. "He's the first member of the group within the past 19 years to have ever got this far. On his first time in the competition, to then go on and win it, is a true testament to his dedication and all-round ability as a great chef. He is a real credit to Kerridge's Bar & Grill, the Corinthia hotel and the team. He is an outstanding chef with a fantastic future ahead of him, which has been made better now being part of as prestigious and unique group as a the Roux Scholars."

Simply perfect

Ploch's career began at culinary school in Rzeszów, Poland. He went on to work at a restaurant in the city before moving to Warsaw to take a position as a commis chef at Concept 13, rising to the rank of senior chef de partie. He then moved to London, taking a commis chef position at Restaurant Story before being promoted to chef de partie. He joined Kerridge's Bar & Grill in the same position in 2021.

Ploch says Kerridge's cooking style resonates with his own. He explains: "The food I like is minimalistic but full of flavour. I want people to enjoy the food I cook and for it to be accessible. If you have amazing ingredients, you just want to expose their flavour as much as possible and not overwhelm them with anything unnecessary. Keep it simple, tasty and refined."

As winner of the Roux Scholarship, Ploch will have the opportunity to undertake a two-month stage at any three-Michelin-starred restaurant in the world or create a bespoke training package to the value of £12,000. The chef says he has yet to decide which option to take and has been speaking to previous scholars for advice.

The winner of the Roux Scholarship also receives £6,000 to spend on educational opportunities and career development. An additional £6,000 is awarded to the scholar if they remain with their employer for 15 months after winning the competition.

Looking to the future, Ploch says he wants to keep learning and "gather as much knowledge as possible". One day he would like to open his own restaurant, "something small and casual", but for now he's focused on enjoying his year as Roux Scholar.


Scholars and judges on 40 years of the Roux Scholarship

Thomas Keller, 2024 honorary president of the Roux Scholarship "The competition is just a wonderful thing. I was very proud and honoured to join the celebration of the 40th anniversary."

Judge James Martin "I think the Roux Scholarship means as much to the people who win as it as it does to the people who organise it, take part in the judging and sponsor the competition. There are few things that have stood the test of time. It's not just what happens here, it's what happens afterwards, and that's what makes it very, very special."

1999 scholar and judge Sat Bains "The Roux Scholarship goes from strength to strength and it's fantastic to have Emily Roux joining the judging panel, so the legacy continues. [As we mark the anniversary] we are missing the Roux brothers and Andrew Fairlie, the first scholar. We had a toast to him and it was lovely to remember the beginning of the 40 years."

2002 scholar and judge André Garrett "Doors open for each chef that wins the scholarship. The travel is incredible, the profile-building is very important, and we are all very good friends. We are part of a big family, which is really special. It's a tough trade and connections and networking are very important."

2003 scholar and judge Simon Hulstone "There are scholars working in colleges, in contract catering, some are cooking around the world and others are in two- or three-Michelin-starred restaurants. The scholars all become almost family with mutual respect for each other.

"It doesn't just give you a platform, it's a continual relationship. It's the only competition that does not forget you – it's not just a slap on the back and well done, we are all involved, there's trips, judging and much more."

Judge Clare Smyth "Quite frankly, it's a family. You can see how dear the Roux scholars are to this group. It's a most prestigious club of people that continuously look out for each other. You're a Roux scholar for life, it's not just one year. You can see the lineage: people that have gone on to have great careers, the next generation coming through and the support network that's there. It's just one big family."

The origins of the Roux Scholarship

Michel Sr and Albert Roux established the Roux Scholarship in 1983.

At that time there were just 33 Michelin-starred restaurants in the Michelin Guide Great Britain & Ireland and Britain and Ireland were generally not lauded for their culinary offerings.

The Roux brothers saw the scholarship as a way to address this, by offering each winning chef the opportunity to undertake a stage in one of the world's top kitchens.

The first scholarship was awarded in 1984 to Andrew Fairlie, who went on to win two Michelin stars for his eponymous restaurant in Gleneagles. A decade later the scholarship was awarded to its first female winner, Mercy Fenton.

In 1999, Michel Sr and Albert's sons, Alain and Michel, joined the judging panel and the pair took over as chairmen in 2016. In 2024, Michel's daughter Emily joined the panel for the first time.

Throughout its four decades the scholarship has promoted and recognised classic culinary techniques as the foundation of the industry. As well as offering scholars the chance to stage at any three-Michelin-starred restaurant in the world, the scholarship organises educational trips for current and past scholars and acts as a networking forum.

Previous winners include Dan Cox, Hrishikesh Desai, Mark Birchall, Luke Selby, Spencer Metzger and April Lily Partridge.

The finalists

  • Harrison Brockington of Gather in Totnes, Devon
  • Ben Miller of Alex Dilling at Hotel Café Royal, London
  • Karol Ploch of Kerridge's Bar & Grill, London
  • Jordan Randerson of the Elephant in Torquay, Devon
  • Liam Smith of Pine in East Wallhouses, Northumberland
  • Evelina Stripeikyte of the Glenturret Lalique in Crieff, Perth and Kinross

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