‘Chef legend’ Michel Guérard dies aged 91

Michel Guérard, former chef patron of the three Michelin-starred Les Prés d’Eugénie in France and one of the founders of the ’nouvelle cuisine’ movement, has died at the age of 91.

The news was announced by the Roux Scholarship, who shared a post on Instagram thanking his contributions to the competition.  

The statement read: “Chef Guérard played a significant role in the Roux Scholarship several times, first in welcoming our very first Roux Scholar Andrew Fairlie for the inaugural prize stage, and then in 2005 Roux Scholar Matthew Tomkinson also did his stage at Les Prés d’Eugénie.

“In 2018 we were delighted to welcome him as our Honorary President of Judges, when he helped choose our winner that year, Martin Carabott.

“A very good friend of the Roux family, we have treasured our moments with him and our thoughts are with his family, particularly his daughters Adeline and Eléonore.”

Guérard started his career as an apprentice pastry chef. In 1958, at the age of 25, he was awarded the coveted title of Meilleur Ouvrier de France while he was head pastry chef at Hôtel de Crillon in Paris.

He opened his first restaurant, Le Pot-Au-Feu in Paris, in 1965. Two years later, he won his first Michelin star, followed by a second in 1971.

During the early 1970s, Guérard was recognised as one of the founding fathers of nouvelle cuisine alongside Paul Bocuse, Roger Vergé, the Troisgros brothers and Alain Chapel, all of whom supported him at Le Pot-Au-Feu.

In contrast to ’cuisine classique’, ’nouvelle cuisine’ placed a greater emphasis on presentation, with delicate, unfussy cooking and lighter flavours.  

In 1972, Guérard met his wife, Christine Barthélémy, who had inherited the Les Prés d’Eugénie property in the spa village of Eugénie-les-Bains in south-west France from her father in 1967.

In 1974, he left his Michelin-starred bistro for Eugénie, where he developed the ’grande cuisine minceur’, which offered lighter versions of traditional French dishes.

Guérard won his first Michelin star for Les Prés d’Eugénie in 1974 and the second a year later, with a third coming in 1977. He has since held three Michelin stars continuously for over 40 years.

Hospitality pays tribute

The industry has paid tribute to Guérard, who has left a lasting mark on his peers, mentees and guests.

Kenneth Culhane, head chef at the Michelin-starred Dysart Petersham in London’s Richmond, told The Caterer: “Michel Guérard is such a great inspiration to all of us, his natural approaches to hospitality are virtues that underline a beautiful and respectful way of looking at life. He’s the best chef ever in my eyes, so natural and humble.

“He very much understood that presentation is far more than just some abstract, or fashionable notion of what may, or may not be ‘art’, or ‘interesting’, or ‘trendy’, at the indulgent whim of an individual chef, seeking to be different, to promote a ‘new’ concept. It is a way of celebrating and communicating. The natural relationship between us humans  and nature. The natural beauty and worth of the ingredients, their importance as bounty of the earth, the joy in them, pleasure for all the senses. 

“We were very fortunate to have spent some time with him as he was the guest judge of the Roux Scholarship in 2018. Sending heartfelt condolences to all his family in this time.”

Alain Roux, chef patron of the three Michelin-starred Waterside Inn in Bray, also told The Caterer: “I was so sad to wake up this morning to the news. Michel Guérard has been an icon and friend my whole life, so it’s an irretrievable loss. My father loved him dearly and so did I. Like both of us, Chef Michel started on his culinary path as an apprentice pastry chef. His peerless career saw him achieve every accolade possible, not least the Meilleur Ouvrier de France at the age of 25 and dazzling Michelin success, including three stars for more than 40 consecutive years at Les Prés d’Eugenie. Yet for all his greatness, he personified humility, grace, kindness and the passion, warmth, humour and generosity of someone who has hospitality running in his veins. 

“A towering inspiration to chefs worldwide, not least our own Roux Scholarship judges and scholars across four decades. Chef Michel hosted our first scholar, Andrew Fairlie for his stage in 1984 and also, Matthew Tomkinson in 2005. We were honoured to welcome him as honorary president of the judges in 2018.  Today we mourn the loss of Chef Michel. A true gentleman, legend and friend whose legacy and inspiration will live forever.”

Restaurant critic Andy Hayler told The Caterer: “He was one of the most influential chefs of his generation, appearing on the cover of Time magazine as far back as 1976. His gained the ultimate three Michelin stars for his restaurant Les Pres d’Eugenie in the south-west of France in 1977, and held this prestigious award ever since. A pioneer of nouvelle cuisine, his healthy cuisine minceur was instrumental in giving French haute cuisine a lighter touch.”

Gérald Passedat, chef de cuisine at the three Michelin-starred Le Petit Nice Passédat, said (translated from the French): “Today I learnt of the death of my chef mentor Michel Guérard . My condolences to his family. Memories of such a beautiful time. This immense chef, precursor of ‘la cuisine minceur’, was an erudite visionary, sensible. Thank you my friend for teaching me everything.”

Sat Bains, chef-owner of the two Michelin-starred Restaurant Sat Bains in Nottingham, posted on Instagram: “Sad day today. A passing of chef legend Michel Guérard. So honoured to have met him as the Honorary Guest Judge 2018 Roux Scholarship. You’ll be in good company together again with Andrew, Michel and Albert.”

Chris Galvin, chef patron at Galvin Restaurants, commented: “My first inspiration, so sad but so lucky to have had his inspiration and ground-breaking influence. Condolences to his family.”