Biodiversity among the French vineyards makes for happier vines

07 September 2022
Biodiversity among the French vineyards makes for happier vines

Biodiversity among the French vineyards makes for happier vines, says Élise Mérigaud, head sommelier at La Dame de Pic, London

We've all known for some time that our activity on earth is impacting the climate, but it's only in recent years that a large number of vine growers have started to change the way in which they work.

I recently visited the Rhône Valley in May, and the lady at the cellar door of Château Pesquié told us they had already been on drought alert for a couple of weeks across the valley.

To combat climate change and produce wines that are more delicate, many estates are now looking to incorporate biodynamic practices, helping to create healthier and more qualitative grapes that are more resilient to environmental factors.

On the same short trip we visited Chateau Montirius in Vacqueyras. This vineyard was one of the first to start changing its practices and convert to biodynamic production in the late 1980s, at a time when many thought it was a mistake. However, their belief that more life in the vineyard equates to more freshness in the grapes has seen them weather the changes in climate better than others.

The second estate that has seen great results with reintegrating biodiversity into the vineyard is Domaine de Lorient in Saint-Péray. From the moment you step onto the property you can see why the wines are so delicious. Sheep and cows roam freely, providing natural manure for the earth; grass grows between the vines, and crops such as wheat, potatoes and flowers attract pollinators and enrich the soil for the vines. Pear, olive and apple trees not only yield delicious fruits but provide shade for the vines in the rising temperatures and act as carbon sinks at a time when they have never been more needed.

The traditional Bordeaux vineyards are also starting to think differently. Driving through the Médoc, you can only see vines – there is a distinct lack of vegetation and biodiversity. The region is now encouraging owners to replant trees that have been removed in the past for vine growing, with one of the most famous cru of the Médoc, Château Latour, reintegrating biodiversity through tree planting.

Introducing biodiversity to wine production will not fix the climate problem overnight. There is a lot still to be discovered, especially how to fight against vine diseases, but my hope is that many more winegrowers will follow this direction and we will see positive changes as a result.

Cocktail of the week: Seaweed Seeper (a Climavore cocktail)

Supplied by Rita Pacheco Da Conceicao, general manager at the Magazine at the Serpentine restaurant, London

  • 50ml Tanqueray gin
  • 20ml sweet vermouth
  • 10ml lemon juice
  • 15ml elderflower syrup
  • Splash of tonic
  • 2-3g rock samphire

Muddle the samphire with the elderflower, Tanqueray gin and lemon.

Add the sweet vermouth and shake it. Double-strain and top up with tonic water. Add ice cubes to a rock glass, and garnish with three strands of the samphire.

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