Book review: Stark, by Ben and Sophie Crittenden

It's fitting then, that Stark is also no ordinary cookbook. In addition to the recipes – 42 of them, such as hake, mushroom, dashi, and poussin, korma, grape, and a dozen tapas dishes, including a wagyu slider – there is also the extraordinary story of the restaurant. This is told with breathtaking honesty from both sides of the pass, from Ben in the kitchen and Sophie front of house.

In his introduction, Ben says: "There's no sugar coating or PR spin", and he is true to his word. At one point in his career, the pressure of work, coupled with a draining extended daily commute, saw Ben contemplating steering his car into the central reservation rather than face another day in the kitchen. On a business trip to San Sebastián, he recalls standing on the ledge of a hotel balcony, ready to jump.

But it's Sophie's voice that really sets this book apart. Their personal life is laid out so bare that at times it feels like eavesdropping on a private conversation. Understanding the devasting impact of a severe lack of work-life balance on the couple's relationship and family life (they have three children) is sobering. But that searing honestly is what makes Stark such a compulsive read and so valuable to anyone considering following in the Crittenden's footsteps and opening their own restaurant.

Stark, by Ben and Sophie Crittenden (A Way With Media, £30)