Wine Theatre concept is ‘idiotic', says critic

16 June 2009 by
Wine Theatre concept is ‘idiotic', says critic

The conception and execution of The Wine Theatre in London is "idiotic and cack-handed", according to Matthew Norman.

The Guardian's food critic describes both the interiors and the food at the Southwark restaurant as a disaster.

"To be scrupulously fair, visually it isn't a car crash; it's a motorway pile-up tailing back 17 miles to junction 11," he says.

"As for the cooking, this combined the two into a tragicomic tour de force of historic proportions."

Meanwhile the Independent's Tracey MacLeod finds that while the food at the two-Michelin-starred Marcus Wareing at The Berkeley is technically good, it does not quite reach the heights she had hoped for.

"There isn't a huge amount of personality in his food; we were enjoying the meal, but it wasn't quite hitting the expected heights," she says.

The Observer's Jay Rayner loves the simplicity of Crabshakk in Glasgow, while The Times' Giles Coren has a great lunch followed by a very poor dinner at Il Baretto.

For these reviews in full and more, see What's on the menu? To book a table and view the latest restaurant deals, visit Caterer Eats Out. Visit Guide Girl for the latest gossip from the fine dining world.

Former Michelin-star winner John McClements plans central London restaurant >>

Gordon Ramsay to relaunch Pétrus in September >>

By Kerstin Kühn

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