Critic finds the new Petrus ‘the culinary equivalent of beige'

26 April 2010 by
Critic finds the new Petrus ‘the culinary equivalent of beige'

Pétrus - is criticised by Jay Rayner of the Observer for failing to provide a more exciting eating out experience for a meal that costs more than £100 per head.

He is particularly appalled by the wine list which he describes as "an act of violence" for offering the cheapest wine at £25 and little else below £30.

"Save for the few high points - a remarkable watercress soup, a clever scallop dish - mostly it's the culinary equivalent of beige: dull at worst, inoffensive at best," he says.

Jasper Gerard's thoughts on the Dean Street Dining Room, London W1 are mixed. He likes the look of the place - "There is, quite properly, the faint scent of sex (red banquettes, another wallpaper motif of naked bottoms)" but he can't come to terms with the retro menu.

"Rarely have I found such a dashing place serving such crashing food," he writes in the Daily Telegraph. "It's smoothly done but tradition without a twist can be deadly."

In the Sunday Times, AA Gill cannot contain his joy at Bruno Loubet turning his back on Australia and returning to London to head Bistrot Bruno Loubet at The Zetter hotel, London EC1.

"Bruno manages, in all their hearty meatiness, to make his dishes taste as if they were prepared in a brothel full of expressionists and consumptive romantics," he enthuses. "And, if all that disgusts you, then you're too squeamishly Anglo-Saxon, and you really need a bit of French in you."

In the Glasgow Herald, Joanna Blythman finds there is much to enjoy about the cooking at the sympathetically revamped MacSorley's, a pub which originally dates back to 1899 and has more recently been known as a music venue.

However, she advises the chef, Sam Carswell to stick to what he knows best and drop the frills and fripperies of fine-dining.

For this review in full and more, see What's on the menu? To book a table, see Caterer Eats Out. Visit Guide Girl for the latest gossip from the fine dining world.

Gordon Ramsay's new Pétrus is behind the times, says critic >>

Relaunched Pétrus offers 'faultless' interpretation of classics, says critic >>

Bruno Loubet - back from Down Under >>

By Janet Harmer

E-mail your comments to Janet Harmer here.

If you have something to say on this story or anything else join the debate at Table Talk - Caterer's new networking forum. Go to jobs
Looking for a new job? Find your next restaurant job here with jobs

Blogs on]( Catch up with more news and gossip on all Caterer's blogs
[Newsletters For the latest hospitality news, sign up for our e-mail newsletters.
The Caterer Breakfast Briefing Email

Start the working day with The Caterer’s free breakfast briefing email

Sign Up and manage your preferences below

Check mark icon
Thank you

You have successfully signed up for the Caterer Breakfast Briefing Email and will hear from us soon!

Jacobs Media Group is honoured to be the recipient of the 2020 Queen's Award for Enterprise.

The highest official awards for UK businesses since being established by royal warrant in 1965. Read more.


Ad Blocker detected

We have noticed you are using an adblocker and – although we support freedom of choice – we would like to ask you to enable ads on our site. They are an important revenue source which supports free access of our website's content, especially during the COVID-19 crisis.

trade tracker pixel tracking