Critic dislikes ‘sterility and awkwardness' at Gauthier Soho

14 June 2010 by
Critic dislikes ‘sterility and awkwardness' at Gauthier Soho

Alexis Gauthier's new opening, Gauthier Soho, is criticised by the Independent's Tracey MacLeod for the "sterility and awkwardness" of her experience there.

MacLeod's guest David Baddiel went further and compared the downstairs dining room to a "Harley Street doctor's waiting room", while MacLeod dislikes being "solicitously interrupted" by over-attentive staff. But the pair at lease enjoyed some of the dainty food on offer from the chef, who previously won a Michelin star at Roussillon, in Pimlico.

Giles Coren has a better time at Daniel Boulud's much-reviewed, much-feted Bar Boulud. In his Times column, he celebrates the charcuterie which he describes as "really, truly, awesome", and is similarly impressed that entire meal for four with copious amounts of wine ends up costing £150.

Meanwhile David Sexton of the London Evening Standard lavishes a considerable amount of praise on Paramount, at Centre Point tower in London, although more so for the view than the food.

While he enjoys some of the "fussy" dishes he is presented with, poor service and the odd miss such as a side order of "flabby, tasteless" hand-cut chips mar the culinary experience.

And the Observer's Jay Rayner enjoys a trip down to Devon to see Riverford Farm in Buckfastleigh and later to sample its produce at its Field Kitchen restaurant.

Rayner, who seems ideologically opposed to the idea of organic vegetable boxes, is nonetheless impressed by the food on offer in a "bloody good" restaurant where "the classic European model - animal protein at the centre, vegetables as side dishes - is reversed".

For this review in full and more, see What's on the menu?]( To book a table, see Caterer Eats Out. Visit Guide Girl for the latest gossip from the fine dining world.

Paramount private members' club opens to the public next month >>

Critic finds Bar Boulud "unmemorable and mediocre" >>

Alexis Gauthier buys former Richard Corrigan restaurant Lindsay House >>

By Neil Gerrard

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