Gordon Ramsay has reinvented himself with faultless, unfussy interpretations of classic combinations at his revival of Pétrus, his latest restaurant to open in London, according to Daily Telegraph food critic Jasper Gerard.
Although he said he will probably not return, Gerard suggests that Pétrus is a good bet if you are seeking opulent atmosphere for a relatively ordinary outlay.
One of the most damning reviews of the year so far is directed at Atul Kochhar's new restaurant Colony in London W1. Writing in the Guardian, Matthew Norman describes the restaurant as a monstrosity that looks like a posh doctor's waiting room. After returning his food to the kitchen barely touched, he can not believe the waiter's irony in inviting him to return for another meal.
Giles Coren of The Times has a lot more fun at the UK's first specialty cheese restaurant, L'Art du Fromage in London SW10. He describes it as "a brilliant little place, honest, wholehearted, fascinating, original and charming." However, he says Roquefort ice cream is a serious challenge and unsurprisingly, he decided to skip the cheese course.
At Blythswood Square in Glasgow, the Observer's Jay Rayner finds the menu is divided between classic dishes which, he said, "the kitchen feels it has to serve" and contemporary dishes which are "the ones it wants to serve to prove it is up to the moment". He adds, "Well, it is up to moment, just not this one."
By Janet Harmer
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