Dining at the Evesham hotel ‘profoundly strange', says critic

22 February 2010 by
Dining at the Evesham hotel ‘profoundly strange', says critic

Eating at the Evesham hotel in Evesham, Worcestershire can be a profoundly strange experience, according to the Guardian's food critic Matthew Norman.

He described a litany of oddities in his weekend review, including an owner who is a cross between Basil Fawlty and Gyles Brandreth, men's loos that produces fart noises and drab décor reminiscent of a seaside boarding house.

Surprisingly, the food was not too bad with a starter dish of Roquefort and fig brûlée with pear and a pecan-studded salad receiving top marks.

Tracey MacLeod wrote in the Independent that while The Arch

She did like the cocktail bar - "gorgeous", and the lounge - "sexy", but described the actual restaurant as looking like a mini-canteen. The food, too, was hit and miss.

Meanwhile, Jay Rayner of the Observer, enjoyed a great meal at the Pipe & Glass in South Malton, East Yorkshire. He was initially put off by the news that the pub has recently received a Michelin star, which inevitably raised his expectations.

But he need not have worried, as he was served top quality food in a warm, friendly environment.

The Sunday Telegraph's Zoe Williams also enjoyed exceptional cooking from chef Gemma Tuley at the Manson in London SW6.

After eating top notch starters and main courses - French and classic in character - she ordered a "weird" sounding Jerusalem artichoke cheesecake with peanut butter ice cream which turned out to be a delicious surprise.

For this review in full and more, see What's on the menu? To book a table, see Caterer Eats Out. Visit Guide Girl for the latest gossip from the fine dining world.

The Arch - a dream realised >>

Wallace & Co would not survive first round of Masterchef, says critic >>

Review of the reviews >>

](http://www.caterersearch.com/Topics/212/review-of-the-reviews.html)*By Janet Harmer*

E-mail your comments to Janet Harmer here.

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