What's on the menu: Canvas is not such a pretty picture, says Joe Warwick

26 January 2014
What's on the menu: Canvas is not such a pretty picture, says Joe Warwick

Canvas by Michael Riemenschneider in London W1 is not such a pretty picture, says Joe Warwick in the http://www.standard.co.uk/lifestyle/travel/the-hambrough-isle-of-wight--hotel-review-9077834.html" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">Metro](http://metro.co.uk/2014/01/23/londons-canvas-restaurant-is-not-such-a-pretty-picture-4273491/). He describes a delicate amuse-bouche of shredded duck confit, lobster, smoked eel and broccoli purée as the best thing all night.

"Elsewhere Riemenschneider tries too hard to impress with complex combinations, techniques and presentation, while at the same time managing to make basic cooking errors," says Warwick. "Everything feels overwrought, the plates too busy, their contents often tepid."

The [Observer's ](http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2014/jan/26/roux-at-parliament-square-restaurant-review-jay-rayner)Jay Rayner returns to Roux at Parliament Square for a rare re-review, following the appointment of 2009 Masterchef: the Professionals winner Steve Groves as head chef. He finds that while a MasterChef is now in the kitchens, the dull restaurant is still in need of a makeover.

"I want to eat Groves's food, but not here," Rayner says. "And not like this, to muted male chatter and the scrape of cutlery."

Xavier Rousset and Agnar Sverrisson's 28°- 50° on London's Maddox Street serves simple but commanding food, and creates a feeling of being swaddled in savoir-faire, finds Zoe Williams in the [Telegraph](http://www.telegraph.co.uk/foodanddrink/restaurants/10577556/28-50-London-W1-restaurant-review.html).

Lisa Markwell visits On the Bab, London EC1, for the [Independent ](http://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/food-and-drink/reviews/on-the-bab-restaurant-review-korean-street-dishes-for-hip-diners-looking-for-fun-9083517.html)and is underwhelmed by the Korean street food on offer.

The [Evening Standard's ](http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout/restaurants/grace-dent-reviews-caf-murano-9078011.html)Grace Dent finds delightful late-night divertimenti at Angela Hartnett's Café Murano in St James's.

House of Ho is a dim, sleek place, and its cocktails and lounge house music perhaps suggest it's best suited to a night-time scene, says Euan Ferguson in [Time Out](http://www.timeout.com/london/restaurants/house-of-ho).

The Brackenbury in London W6 is back with its virtue of being the ideal neighbourhood restaurant intact, says Fay Maschler in the [Evening Standard](http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout/restaurants/fay-maschler-reviews-the-brackenbury-9076852.html).

A shabby interior at Shanghai Shanghai in Nottingham is more than made up for by the "historic" food, according to Giles Coren, writing in the [Times](http://www.thetimes.co.uk/tto/magazine/article3980800.ece).

The Grill Room at the Cedar Court Grand hotel, York, offers first-class dining in a fantastic heritage setting, says the [Independent's ](http://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/food-and-drink/reviews/the-grill-room-at-the-grand-restaurant-review-firstclass-dining-in-a-fantastic-heritage-setting-9080407.html)Jonathan Brown

Every coastal town deserves a restaurant like Riddle and Finns in Brighton - small, unpretentious and confident, says Tom Parker-Bowles in the [Daily Mail](http://www.dailymail.co.uk/home/event/article-2544775/TOM-PARKER-BOWLES-Why-Brightons-plaice-Every-coastal-town-deserves-classic-like-just-ignore-rude-intruder.html), no fuss or faffing about, just fresh fish, well cooked.

Brigade in London, where the homeless can learn catering skills, is a noble enterprise, says the [Telegraph's ](http://www.telegraph.co.uk/foodanddrink/restaurants/10577039/Restaurant-review-Brigade-at-the-Fire-Station-London.html)Victoria Moore, but some of its creations a shade too ambitious.

Nick Nairn's restaurant Native at the Hilton Garden Inn, Aberdeen, serves up food with care and attention, says Ewan Cameron in the Aberdeen Evening Express.


The [Times' ](http://www.thetimes.co.uk/tto/travel/wheretostay/london/article3981983.ece)Tom Chesshyre says the cutting-edge style of the Ace Hotel in Shoreditch, London, with its exposed piping and deliberately scuffed walls, may be too much for some.

Fiona Duncan finds delightful staff and generous extras at the Milestone in Kensington, London, but is swamped by the overwrought and cloying decor - in the [Sunday Telegraph](http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/hotel/126865/The-Milestone-hotel-Kensington-London-review.html).

The Hambrough, on the Isle of Wight, was a great place to breakfast, drink, sleep and set out from - "maybe our supper was an aberration. I hope so," says Nick Curtis in the [Evening Standard.

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