Best end of Daylesford organic venison with tortellini of smoked garlic and Cerney goats' cheese sauce grand veneur – by Andy Troughton

09 October 2006
Best end of Daylesford organic venison with tortellini of smoked garlic and Cerney goats' cheese sauce grand veneur – by Andy Troughton

(Serves four)
4 x 200g best ends of venison
80g unsalted butter
25ml olive oil
2 banana shallots

Marinade for venison
1tsp thyme leaves
2 Garlic cloves
200ml red wine
1 tsp juniper berries
2 bay leaves
1 white peach
5g unsalted butter
2g caster sugar

Parsley purée
200g flat-leaf parsley
75g baby spinach leaves
5g unsalted butter
Salt and pepper

80g pasta dough
20g chicken mousse (see below)
60g Cerney goats' cheese
2 large smoked garlic cloves

Pasta dough
250g "00" flour
2 whole eggs
3 egg yolks
1tbs olive oil
Pinch of powdered saffron

Basic chicken mousse
1kg chicken breast
1,200ml double cream
200g egg whites

Shallots 4 banana shallots
100ml red wine
1-2tsp thyme leaves
5g unsalted butter

15g diced carrots
10g diced shallots
10g diced streaky bacon
5g diced celery
2g unsalted butter
1 sprig of thyme
1-2 bay leaves
50ml sherry vinegar
100ml white wine
3 crushed black peppercorns
100ml venison glaze
½tbs redcurrant jelly
1tbs double cream

Method for tortellini
1. Blend the chicken breast with the egg white until smooth, season and chill in the fridge. Blanch garlic cloves three times in salted boiling water then crush with a knife to a purée.
2. Over a bowl of ice, slowly beat the double cream into the chicken paste until all is incorporated.
3. Add the goats' cheese and garlic until smooth.
4. Poach a little of the mousse to check for correct flavour and seasoning.
5. Place in a piping bag in the fridge.
6. For the pasta dough, sieve the flour and blend in a food processor, adding the eggs one at a time, incorporate the saffron and olive oil while the processor is still running. The dough should come together as one, the pasta is now made.
7. Knead for a few minutes then wrap in clingfilm.
8. Rest in the fridge for a minimum of one hour.
9. Roll out the dough and proceed to make the tortellini, piping a small ball of mousse on to four circles of pasta.
10. Place the tortellini on to a floured tray until service.

Method for parsley purée:
1. Blanch the parsley and spinach in boiling salted water for 30 seconds and refresh, reserving the blanching water.
2. When cool, blend to a fine purée adding a little cooking water to achieve required consistency.
3. For an extra smooth purée, pass through a fine sieve, check seasoning.

Method for sauce grand veneur:
1. In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, fry all the vegetables, herbs and bacon in the butter until you have achieved a nice caramelisation.
2. Add the roasted venison trimmings and bones you saved earlier, and continue colouring. Deglaze with the sherry vinegar and reduce by half.
3. Add the white wine and reduce by half. At this point add the peppercorns and venison glaze.
4. Bring to a gentle simmer and skim off any impurities and gently simmer for about 20 minutes.
5. Whisk in the redcurrant jelly and finally the double cream.
6. Check seasoning and consistency and pass through double muslin.

Method for shallots
1. Finely slice the shallots and sauté in butter, being sure they don't colour.
2. Add the red wine and thyme and gently cook until the shallots have taken on all the wine.
3. Check seasoning and keep warm.
4. Halve the peach and remove the stone. Cut one half into four equal wedges cleaning away any untidy fibres.
5. Remove the venison from its marinade and pat dry.
6. In a large non-stick frying pan, seal the venison loins in foaming butter and olive oil until you achieve a good caramelised crust.
7. Roast in a hot oven on a trivet of shallot rings for 8-10 minutes, basting with the butter and cooking juices at least twice during cooking.
8. Once cooked (you want the venison to be nice and pink), rest for a minimum of 10 minutes covered with tin foil.
9. In a smaller non-stick pan, sauté the peach quarters in foaming butter until lightly coloured. sprinkle with a little caster sugar and roast until tender, again basting with the pan juices. poach the tortellini in salted boiling water for 3-4 minutes.
10. Gently reheat the parsley purée and grand veneur sauce, remove twine from the venison and slice into four, giving three medallions and one cutlet.
11. Arrange in a rosette at one end of the warm oblong service plate.
12. At the opposite end, place a quenelle of warmed red wine shallots, sitting on a roasted peach quarter and the tortellini on top.
13. With a teaspoon smear a teardrop of parsley purée around the onions.
14. Coat the venison with sauce, garnish the tortellini with a little milled black pepper, a drizzle of olive oil and chervil.

Method for venison 1. Remove all sinew and bones except for one end bone.
2. Scrape it clean and wrap its end in foil to protect during cooking.
3. Lightly tie the loins with butcher's twine to form the shape of a cannon.
4. Place in the marinade for a minimum of one hour.
5. Reserve all the trimmings and ones.
6. Roast until lightly caramelised in a very hot oven, 250°C.
7. Drain and keep to one side.

By Andy Troughton, head chef, the Manor House Hotel, Moreton-in-Marsh, Gloucestershire

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