Orders for execution

Easy execution is the key to the menu at Oliver's Brasserie, the Lygon Arms's bistro operation adjacent to the main building, and is perhaps evocative of the era of its namesake, Oliver Cromwell, who stayed there in 1651. This is because the 40-seat eaterie is served by a tiny kitchen with room for just three chefs and eight burners.

At the helm is 24-year-old chef-manager Matthew Pashley, who transferred from the post of sous chef in the Lygon's main kitchen in April. Pashley, who was a finalist for this year's Roux scholarship and whose pedigree includes the Connaught, the Berkeley and La Tante Claire, all in London, was given a free rein to create a new menu. Oliver's had been part of the Lygon's food offering for several years, but Pashley's challenge was to change its image and turn it into a bistro.

At first he was too ambitious, favouring myriad flavours with complex garnishes. But he soon realised that this was not practical in a tiny kitchen. His second attempt was more realistic.

For starters, personal favourites are chicken liver parfait with apple jam and toasted sourdough bread (£4.95) and Thai fish cake with Asian salad and crispy noodles (£4.95). Pashley also tries to take account of seasonal produce - asparagus is a speciality of the Vale of Evesham during spring; consequently, starters such as smoked salmon with asparagus, Parmesan and poached egg (£4.25) feature at that time of year.

For main courses, roast fillet of cod with cherry tomatoes, Puy lentils and saffron rouille (£9.95) sounds simple but has hidden complications. The tomatoes are roasted at 50ºC for 24 hours before joining the other ingredients. Pashley is keen on details such as these, citing Marco Pierre White as his biggest influence. "I admire him, because a lot of work goes on behind the scenes, and the end result is good food executed to a very high standard," he says. "This is what I would like to achieve."

Dishes are priced for the main course only - all side orders are separate. They include spinach and rocket salad with balsamic dressing; home-made potato chips deep-fried at the last minute; and potato purée with horseradish for that extra kick, all priced at £1.90. On the dessert menu, caramelised apple tart with hazelnut praline and cinnamon sugar (£4.25) is presented in the form of a tarte tatin, whereas pistachio parfait with dark chocolate sorbet is designed to confound expectations - the dark chocolate acts as the accompaniment to the pistachio and not vice versa.

Average spend is £25 including drinks. Pashley has a target of 27% food cost, and in his first month hit 25%. He plans to change the menu every six weeks.

Oliver's Brasserie, Lygon Arms, Broadway, Worcestershire WR12 7DU. Tel: 01386 854418