New world scores century

01 January 2000
New world scores century

By Joe Hyam

Few wine producers in the New World can claim a 100-year history. One of them is Wynns Coonawarra Estate, the oldest established winery in Australia. Founded by Scottish pioneer John Riddoch who planted the vineyard in 1891 and completed the winery in 1896, the winery claims - with justification - to be the estate that made Coonawarra famous.

The winery is noted now especially for the quality of its Cabernet Sauvignon, but the estate and the region have an uneven history. After Riddoch's death in 1901, his successors proved to be less perceptive in identifying Coonawarra's qualities. The estate and region languished until 1951, when Melbourne wine merchant David Wynn bought it, renaming it Wynns Coonawarra Estate.

Today, Coonawarra is one of the New World wine regions which can stand beside the classic vineyards of Europe in quality and prestige. Australia's southernmost wine region, 270 miles south east of Adelaide in South Australia state, it benefits from a cool climate, being only 20 miles from the chilly Southern Ocean.

Red soil lies over porous limestone, and the vines struggle to extend their roots to reach the water table beneath. The result is low-yielding, intensely flavoured grapes and powerful wines.

Wynns celebrated its centenary with a tasting in London last month of its red and white wines - and of some of its vintage Cabernet Sauvignons.

Harmonious

The older vintages are not readily available, but their quality shows the wine's greatness, and gives confidence to anyone who wants to list newly released vintages in restaurant wine lists. The Cabernets' style is powerful, rich in fruit and has a complex, tannic structure. The wines are not easy, but repay attention with their depth and layers of harmonious flavours.

This applies particularly to wines in the Black Label and John Riddoch ranges, made with the top 25% and top 1% of Cabernet grapes respectively.

Hollington House, the country house hotel owned by Australian John Guy, lists Wynns 1976 Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon at £56 a bottle and the 1987 John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon at £35. The latter is still available through Matthew Clark Wholesale (01275 891400) and is outstanding value at £174.40 for a case of 12. But there is very little left. The 1992 vintage works out more expensive, at £113.40 for a case of six bottles. Both will still be drinkable in the next century, though. The harmoniously balanced 1987 can be confidently recommended for current drinking.

Other reds from the winery include a rich blend of Cabernet Shiraz and Merlot, and a straight Shiraz.

Wynns also produces an excellent dry Riesling and a Chardonnay of distinctive New World style and quality. Although Riesling is still unfashionable, the 1995 Coonawarra Estate Riesling - £52.80 for a case of 12 - should convert doubters.

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