L'Atelier de Joë Robuchon

13 June 2003 by
L'Atelier de Joë Robuchon

To visit L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon, you have to stand in line. Literally. Whereas you could wait months for a table at Jamin, the legendary chef's former three-Michelin-starred restaurant in Paris, now you just turn up. Back from retirement, he opens his doors to 40 lucky diners at a time in Saint-Germain-des-Prés on the city's Left Bank on the edge of the student quarter.

He's the first three-Michelin-starred chef to open on the Left Bank, and he's been open about his desire to get away from haute cuisine and create a relaxed environment inspired by the ambience in sushi bars. Has he followed through on that? Well, he's certainly created a temple to food.

A wall of spices confronts you on entering. From then on a good-humoured atmosphere surrounds the serving of an intricate, adventurous menu. As you step up to your perch - a shiny red bar stool - good food is on display: a bread panier, fruit jars, herbs, vinegars and oils are all arranged around the pass where Robuchon stands - yes, he's on site, at least for now - gathering his thoughts before service.

The restaurant, located within the Hotel Pont Royal, is open daily from 11am until midnight, and at evening service, about 6.30pm, the music dies away and the mechanism clicks into action. Black-clad waiters pop up to hand out menus and discuss choices while the 12 chefs, in an open kitchen, get down to what they do best - ladling, drizzling and sprinkling with precision.

A caviar d'aubergine au coulis de tomate (€6, £4.30) was smoky and delicate at the same time. The aubergine, removed from its skin, kept its grilled flavour. It was both tangy and sweet. Tiny aubergine chips set everything off with a sprig of basil, and the tomato coulis had just enough bite to cut through a creamy caviar. Oeuf en cocotte à la crème légère de morilles (€10, £7.17) was a poached egg like never before - an egg white froth at the top of a cocktail glass blended with puréed and whole wild mushrooms. There were surprises, too: a parsley foam, a teaspoon of chives, and, right at the bottom, the perfect yolk.

The mains had a tough act to follow. Opting for classic and new brought spaghettis "Giuseppe Cocco" à notre façon (€18, £12.91) - creamy and perfectly cooked - but the carpaccio de langoustines aux graines de pavot (€28, £20.08) stole the show. The ultra-minimalist plate drew glances. Was there anything on it? In fact, the langoustines had just the complex flavours you come here for. There were poppy seeds, citrus, and a hint of pepper, plus the unexpected: an indefinable, intriguing nuttiness. With the sommelier's nicely astringent choice - a white Hérault - it was the highlight of the meal.

For dessert, a chocolate theme holds sway. Pots de crème vanille et chocolat were light, in contrast to quenelle en chocolat à la pistache en surprise. For the soufflé Chartreuse avec crème glacée pistache, a server cuts a hole in the soufflé and pops in the pistachio ice-cream. All these - at €8 (£5.74) each - were served and eaten, right round the room, to murmurs of appreciation.

Averaging €70 (£50.21) a person, a meal here is still not particularly cheap, but wines by the glass keep prices down. They are good, too: a 2001 Côte du Rhone, with plenty of tannin, had a superb cherry finish, and was a steal at €4 (£2.87) a glass.

L'Atelier's mix of theatre and Japanese minimalism, with exuberant and wry touches to the decor, is a perfect setting for the food. Worth bringing the master back? Why did he go away?

L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon, Hotel Pont Royal, Saint-Germain-des-Prés, 5 Rue Montalembert, 75007 Paris. Tel: 00 33 1 42 22 56 56

By Matthew Spencer

What's on the menu
* Le gaspacho de tomates aux croûtons dorés, €6 (£4.30)
* Foie gras frais de canard au naturel, €16 (£11.48)
* Le millefeuille de légumes confits au basilic, €10 (£7.17)
* Cannelloni de volaille de Bresse au foie gras, €40 (£28.70)
* La morue fraîche cuite à la vapeur aromates, €25 (£17.93)
* Les langoustines au gros sel et au piment d'Espelette, €45 (£32.28)
* Crémeux au chocolat mousse au lait, €8 (£5.74)
* La baba pomponette au rhum et à la Chantilly vanillée, €8 (£5.74)

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