Fruit flavours from Alice's restaurant

18 March 2003 by
Fruit flavours from Alice's restaurant

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- !Chez Panisse Fruit* is the seventh book by Alice Waters, the inspirational chef-proprietor of the Chez Panisse restaurant and café in Berkeley, California. Every one of her books so far has been a culinary masterpiece, written with style, taste, a love of food and the desire to share her passion, beliefs and values. This is no exception. *Chez Panisse Fruit* is written in alphabetical order rather than by chapter, and each entry kicks off with WatersÁ¢Â€Â™s listing of the fruitÁ¢Â€Â™s quality points, its varieties and her preferences for its use. The book is, of course, principally about fruit, but it also contains some fruit and meat combinations, despite the fact that Waters is clearly not a great fan of these. You can trust her judgement, though. Quail with fig vinaigrette was excellent; grilled cured duck breast with pickled peaches, another success. The book includes, too, some recipes for aperitifs Á¢Â€Â" for instance, vin de pamplemousse, silver limeade Á¢Â€Â" plus a vast selection of desserts, some interesting salads and sherbets (called sorbets on this side of the pond). As with all the Chez Panisse books, Waters does not pretend to be the sole author and gives credit where itÁ¢Â€Â™s due Á¢Â€Â" to the cooks who work for her and, in an extensive bibliography, to others. As chefs, of course, we all work with food, but sometimes we lose track of what itÁ¢Â€Â™s all about. Somewhere Á¢Â€Â" in the long days among the GPs, wage budgets, staffing problems and late deliveries Á¢Â€Â" the love of food can occasionally get lost. *Chez Panisse Fruit* (and WatersÁ¢Â€Â™s other books) will remind you why youÁ¢Â€Â™re in the crazy business of cooking. Be inspired and enjoy. Peter Robinson, chef-proprietor, KingÁ¢Â€Â™s Arms, Stow-on-the-Wold, Gloucestershire *Chez Panisse Fruit by Alice Waters HarperCollins, about Á‚£27.50 ISBN 0-06-019957-1*
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