Classic Bull: An Accidental Restaurateur's Cookbook – Stephen Bull

31 January 2002 by
Classic Bull: An Accidental Restaurateur's Cookbook – Stephen Bull
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Classic Bull: An Accidental Restaurateur's Cookbook - Stephen Bull
Classic? Probably. Accidental? Unlikely. Bull? I'll let you decide. Right from the start of this book, Steven Bull makes it clear that it is not designed as a manual for restaurant chefs, nor to embellish coffee tables. Rather, it offers a distillation of his life as a restaurant chef and operator. It takes us, humourously, through the various stages of his life, illustrated with some excellent recipes (I know, I've ripped off a few over the years). The tale begins in Abergavenny, where he grew up, and offers a short piece about the favourite tastes of his childhood. But his real love of food began with the freebie business lunches he enjoyed while working in advertising in London, where Peter Mayle, author of A Year In Provence, was a colleague. The book goes on to detail Bull's decision to quit advertising, his early years as a waiter at Odin's Restaurant under the watchful eye of Peter Loangan (somebody should write his biography) and how he opened his first restaurant in Wales. He learnt to master the art of French cooking on a three-ring electric burner - incredible when you consider that later he gained a Michelin star at his second restaurant in Richmond, Surrey (he'd obviously got the hang of things by then). While the book has conventionally titled chapters, these are interspersed with sub-sections, such as "Stocks - and a Small Rant". In effect, these are little pieces of advice drawn from Bull's experience. Others which appealed were "Food Critics and the Flying Saucer"; "Black Monday" (I'm sure your not the only one, Steven); "Snares and Pitfalls of Menu Writing" (which every chef should read); and "Fulham Road - A Cautionary Tale". This last is a story of leaking pipes, temperamental chefs and dodgy managers, and should be read by every potential restaurateur with romantic delusions. The recipes themselves are clear and precise, with a little page advising people on produce and quality. So, to the acid test: "Could the wife manage one or two?" No problem! A peanut butter cheesecake was a success (much loved by our daughter), while the mango souffle was a little more difficult but a triumph in the end. This is an interesting, well written, informative book, a sort of sophisticated *Kitchen Confidential* with recipes. The only thing missing is a tip for Gold Cup Week or the Grand National. Peter Robinson, chef (formerly of Hotel Tresanton, St Mawes, Cornwall) Classic Bull: An Accidental Restaurateur's Cookbook - Stephen Bull. Macmillan £20 ISBN 0-333-76650-4
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