Book review – Bruce's Cookbook

Bruce's Cookbook By Bruce Poole
Collins, £25
ISBN 978-0-00737610-0

Bruce Poole's restaurant, Chez Bruce in Wandsworth, South London, has frequently been named as a favourite by chefs and customers alike. I'm yet to eat there myself, but after devouring this, his eagerly awaited first cookbook, I can understand why the accolades and plaudits have been aplenty.

Poole's recipes are all about the food you really want to tuck into and eat. There is nothing prissy or fiddly about them, they don't require a degree in gastronomy to understand them - they simply scream "utter enjoyment".

After a beautifully written introduction - providing an insight into the man himself and the philosophy behind his cooking - the book offers a wonderful selection of dishes that would go down a storm on any restaurant menu, as well as being devoured by family members at home.

One of the key influences in Poole's culinary education came from Simon Hopkinson, who gave him his first opportunity to cook professionally at Bibendum. The two men share the same intelligence and understanding that simplicity and generosity is the key to good food.

Poole describes his food as "refined rustic". The dominating flavours stem from the French and British repertoires, alongside influences stemming from his travels elsewhere. A recipe for roast quail served with a sweet and sour pork crust, pak choi, ginger and garlic, for instance, was gleaned from the Danish chef, Kristian Moeller, at his restaurant, Formel B in Copenhagen.

There are so many recipes here that I could recommend, but just as a taster, how about green bean salad with shallots, prosciutto and crackling; slow-roast shoulder of lamb with harissa, spiced pilaf rice and yoghurt; or gratin of figs with Marsala and crème fraîche?

The simple layout of the book, with minimal artistic flourishes, reflects Poole's food and - together with great photography from Jean Cazals - makes this a very user-friendly read.

One small niggle though - the book comes wrapped in wax paper, inscribed with names of Poole's dishes, which partially masks the delicious plum and almond tart photographed on the hard cover. It would be a shame if this unnecessary embellishment stops potential readers from reaching for the book.

I, for one, am off to make my first booking at Chez Bruce.

If you like this, you'll love these:
• Roast Chicken and Other Stories Lindsey Bareham and Simon Hopkinson
• Second Helpings of Roast Chicken Simon Hopkinson
• No Place like Home Rowley Leigh